Block of the Month Directions
Click on block to view instructions or go to the website provided. Please familiarize yourself with the guidelines below before making your block. Questions? Contact Block of the Month Chairman Dawn Spurling by click on the contact Chairman button below,
April 2025
Album Block
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April's colors are green and white.
March 2025
Aunt Dinah Block
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March's colors are dark blue and white.
February 2025
LOUISiANA BLOCK
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January 2025
The Anvil
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JULY 2024
GRAND RIGHT & LEFT BlocK
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12.5” unfinished
I did all seams at a scant ¼”, I also press all seams open, and use a water drop at points that have more than 2 pieces of fabric coming together to ensure that it lays flat! This block is easier than it looks!
Cutting instructions:
From Background Fabric cut;
2 – 6 7/8” squares, subcut diagonally once, giving you 4 large “D” triangles.
4 – 2” “A” squares.
8 – 2 3/8” squares, subcut diagonally once, giving you 16 small “B” triangles.
From your medium size triangle fabric (mine is blue/green), cut 2 – 3 7/8” squares, subcut diagonally once, giving you 4 medium “C” triangles.
From your small colored triangle fabric (mine is purple) cut 12 – 2 3/8” squares, subcut all diagonally once, giving you 24 small “B” triangles.
<-- This is your layout, notice we will make 4 sub blocks and lay them out in a pinwheel pattern.
The first step is to take 8 of the 24 colored small “B” triangles and set them aside. Then take the remaining 16 triangles and seam them right sides together with the 16 background small “B” triangles, lining up on the 90 degree point first, then the other two points as best you can, to make 16 HST’s.
Press seams open and trim to 2 inches.
I did all seams at a scant ¼”, I also press all seams open, and use a water drop at points that have more than 2 pieces of fabric coming together to ensure that it lays flat! This block is easier than it looks!
Cutting instructions:
From Background Fabric cut;
2 – 6 7/8” squares, subcut diagonally once, giving you 4 large “D” triangles.
4 – 2” “A” squares.
8 – 2 3/8” squares, subcut diagonally once, giving you 16 small “B” triangles.
From your medium size triangle fabric (mine is blue/green), cut 2 – 3 7/8” squares, subcut diagonally once, giving you 4 medium “C” triangles.
From your small colored triangle fabric (mine is purple) cut 12 – 2 3/8” squares, subcut all diagonally once, giving you 24 small “B” triangles.
<-- This is your layout, notice we will make 4 sub blocks and lay them out in a pinwheel pattern.
The first step is to take 8 of the 24 colored small “B” triangles and set them aside. Then take the remaining 16 triangles and seam them right sides together with the 16 background small “B” triangles, lining up on the 90 degree point first, then the other two points as best you can, to make 16 HST’s.
Press seams open and trim to 2 inches.
Then layout out the bottom right sub block using 4 of your newly made HSTs, 2 of the 8 colored small B triangles you set aside, 1 of the 2” squares, 1 of the medium triangles, and 1 large triangle, as in the picture below.
Notice on the right side that the two HST’s also have the small colored triangle also attached. That is what I want you to do next. Just flip the small triangle up right sides together, onto the 2 sewn HSTs, lining up at the 90 degree angle on the bottom HST and the 90 degree angle of the colored triangle, sew your ¼” seam across the bottom, press the seam open and trim dog ears even down the left side. Place back into layout.
Next we will work on the top section. Take your 2” square, check and trim if needed, then flip it over right side down, onto the right side of the 2 HST block on the top. Line up both on the right edge and sew your ¼” seam down that edge. Press open, and replace block into layout. Now take the left side small colored triangle and flip it over right side down onto the left side of the 2 HSTs block. Line up the 90 degree points of the small triangle and the background portion of the left HST. Sew your ¼” seam down that left side. Press open and trim dog ears, place back into the layout.
Notice on the right side that the two HST’s also have the small colored triangle also attached. That is what I want you to do next. Just flip the small triangle up right sides together, onto the 2 sewn HSTs, lining up at the 90 degree angle on the bottom HST and the 90 degree angle of the colored triangle, sew your ¼” seam across the bottom, press the seam open and trim dog ears even down the left side. Place back into layout.
Next we will work on the top section. Take your 2” square, check and trim if needed, then flip it over right side down, onto the right side of the 2 HST block on the top. Line up both on the right edge and sew your ¼” seam down that edge. Press open, and replace block into layout. Now take the left side small colored triangle and flip it over right side down onto the left side of the 2 HSTs block. Line up the 90 degree points of the small triangle and the background portion of the left HST. Sew your ¼” seam down that left side. Press open and trim dog ears, place back into the layout.
Lastly, you will pin two of these sub quadrants right sides together, either top to bottom by flipping down, or left to right by flipping over, your preference. Line up the 2” square to the right angle of the background large triangle on both top and bottom pieces, your seams down the long triangle edge should meet, down the seam. If you choose top to bottom, Pin all seam points along the top edge and sew your ¼ inch seam. If you choose left to right pin all seam points along the left edge. If you went right to left pin all point down the right edge. Sew your ¼” seam, Press open. Do the same with the next two quadrants. Now sew the two halves of your block together matching all points. Press seam open, don’t forget the water drop trick on the thick seam points, so that they will lay flat.
JUNE 2024
CELTIC LOG CABIN BlocK
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Block 11.5” unfinished
All seams ¼”
All log strips 1 ½” wide.
I used batik because batiks don’t stretch much. If not using batiks, I suggest you cut on the straight of grain rather then the width, for less stretch. I suggest you do not use fabric that are directional, as the logs are used in all positions, up down, and across both ways and cutting will be much more difficult!
Below is the layout, sizes for the logs will refer to the letters in the layout. This log cabin, as many, starts in the middle. Press all seams open.
All seams ¼”
All log strips 1 ½” wide.
I used batik because batiks don’t stretch much. If not using batiks, I suggest you cut on the straight of grain rather then the width, for less stretch. I suggest you do not use fabric that are directional, as the logs are used in all positions, up down, and across both ways and cutting will be much more difficult!
Below is the layout, sizes for the logs will refer to the letters in the layout. This log cabin, as many, starts in the middle. Press all seams open.
Lay all your strips out in this pattern! You will not layout dark to dark except with the 1 ½” squares(H) and (Dk G) strips which are surrounding the L 1 ½” square and the Dk 1 ½” squares are completing a dark line, creating the knot pattern in the upper right.
This is numbers 1 -7 which makes this a 4 ½” a square! And yes I had to trim this!
Here you can see my strip # 26 partially sewn to the right side of strip #’s 21-25. I stopped sewing across from the top of strip 20, back stitching at that point. I called that area #30, but there is no strip for it, just a line indicating where to stop sewing. Then I sewed strip # 27 to the top of the block, then # 28 to the left side and lastly 29 to the bottom. Now all you have to do is finish the seam of strip # 26 down thru #30 on the right side of the block, starting a little further up than you initially stopped, with backs stitching at the beginning just above your previous back stitching and again at the end of the seam.
Yay! -Your block is now done!
Yay! -Your block is now done!
MAY 2024
MOTHER'S CHOICE BlocK
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12.5” unfinished, Using 3 colors.
Cut 4 – 2 ½” Squares from Background Fabric.
Cut 12 – 2 7/8” Squares from Background Fabric, subcut diagonally once.
Cut one 4 ½” square from each of the two focal pattern fabric colors
Cut 8 - 2 7/8” squares from each of the two focal pattern fabric colors, subcut diagonally once.
The patterned fabric in the above picture is my Background fabric. Stack your 4 Background Squares together and all of your Background Fabric Triangles together. Be careful choosing patterns, you don’t want something too directional because the pattern may be upside down or sideways, when cut into triangles and sewn into a HST (Half Square Triangle). Please note that in order to get accurate cuts when cutting and/or trimming your fabrics, it will help to have non-slip or TrueGrips non-slip rings (the holes work too) on the back of them, enough so that when you are pressing down on the ruler and running your rotary cutter down the sides of the ruler, the ruler doesn’t slip! If you don’t have any, check with your local quilting shop or order online, look for “TrueGrips for rulers” but make sure they are Transparent! Also remember that every time you sew a ¼” seam between two blocks you lose ½” in length compared to the measurement of the same blocks unsewn!
1. Put one Pink Triangle right sides together with one Green Triangle, matching the points of the 90 degree angle. Sew your ¼” inch seam down the long edge. Press the seam open. Repeat for a total of 4 HST’s. Take your 2 1/2” or larger square quilting ruler and place the 45 degree angle on the seam line of your HST. Make sure you have 2 ½ inches of fabric under the ruler on all four sides, while keeping the 45 degree angle on the seam, trim excess on all four sides, it shouldn’t be much! Press open, and set aside into a stack. Note: I don’t know about you but I’m not perfect, which is why I have you line up at the 90 degree point before sewing your seam. I have my fabric usually doubled when I cut multiple sub blocks of fabric, and even with non-slip rulers and true grips, your fabric can slip some. Your need at least one 1/8” seam allowance, and lining up at the 90 degree point gives you the best chance of getting it on both ends of the long edge seam points. See below for examples.
Cut 4 – 2 ½” Squares from Background Fabric.
Cut 12 – 2 7/8” Squares from Background Fabric, subcut diagonally once.
Cut one 4 ½” square from each of the two focal pattern fabric colors
Cut 8 - 2 7/8” squares from each of the two focal pattern fabric colors, subcut diagonally once.
The patterned fabric in the above picture is my Background fabric. Stack your 4 Background Squares together and all of your Background Fabric Triangles together. Be careful choosing patterns, you don’t want something too directional because the pattern may be upside down or sideways, when cut into triangles and sewn into a HST (Half Square Triangle). Please note that in order to get accurate cuts when cutting and/or trimming your fabrics, it will help to have non-slip or TrueGrips non-slip rings (the holes work too) on the back of them, enough so that when you are pressing down on the ruler and running your rotary cutter down the sides of the ruler, the ruler doesn’t slip! If you don’t have any, check with your local quilting shop or order online, look for “TrueGrips for rulers” but make sure they are Transparent! Also remember that every time you sew a ¼” seam between two blocks you lose ½” in length compared to the measurement of the same blocks unsewn!
1. Put one Pink Triangle right sides together with one Green Triangle, matching the points of the 90 degree angle. Sew your ¼” inch seam down the long edge. Press the seam open. Repeat for a total of 4 HST’s. Take your 2 1/2” or larger square quilting ruler and place the 45 degree angle on the seam line of your HST. Make sure you have 2 ½ inches of fabric under the ruler on all four sides, while keeping the 45 degree angle on the seam, trim excess on all four sides, it shouldn’t be much! Press open, and set aside into a stack. Note: I don’t know about you but I’m not perfect, which is why I have you line up at the 90 degree point before sewing your seam. I have my fabric usually doubled when I cut multiple sub blocks of fabric, and even with non-slip rulers and true grips, your fabric can slip some. Your need at least one 1/8” seam allowance, and lining up at the 90 degree point gives you the best chance of getting it on both ends of the long edge seam points. See below for examples.
2. Next put one Pink Triangle right sides together with one Background triangle, matching points at the 90 degree angle, sew your ¼” seam down the long edge. Repeat for a total of 12 HST’s. Press seams open and Trim as in step #1. Place in a stack.
3. Now put one Green Triangle right sides together with one Background Triangle, matching points at the 90 degree angle, sew your ¼” seam down the long edge.
3. Now put one Green Triangle right sides together with one Background Triangle, matching points at the 90 degree angle, sew your ¼” seam down the long edge.
4. Now we need to layout our sub blocks into the right pattern to sew together the rows refer to the pictures above. Take your 4 background squares and put them into the 4 corners, then start putting in your HST triangles into the rows. Don’t forget the 4 ½” square in the middle of row 3 & 4. I find it’s less hassle to line up and match points, if I’m sewing together approximately the same size pieces. All sewn HST’s and the individual HST blocks are 2 ½” Squares. Knowing that, I worked across the first row matching every two blocks right side together, pressed seams open, and returned them to the layout, ending up with three sub blocks back in place. Then I sewed the three two-unit sub blocks together to form the first row. Press seams open, and returned right side up to the layout.
5. Repeat the same process for row 2. Lastly flip row one down right sides together onto row 2, sew your seam across the top matching points, I put an ultra thin pin (because I can sew over them) into each point and at the beginning and end of the row at approximately ¼” in. Press the seam open, putting a drop of water at each point to flatten it, and return to layout right side up.
6. For rows 3 & 4 your 2 ½” blocks are surrounding the center 4 ½” square, therefore you sew the first two sub blocks of both rows together first and place them back into position, then sew the last two sub blocks together and place them back into position right side up. Now take the 1st sub block of row 3 and flip it right side down on the 1st sub block of row 4. Sew your ¼” seam across the top matching points, press the seams open using a drop of water on the points to flatten the seam. Place back in the layout. Then repeat with the last two subblocks for row 3 & 4, placing them back into the layout. Now still working on the center section, all right sides up, flip your new combined subblock on the left over onto the center 4 ½” square, sew your seam on the left side, press open and return to layout then flip the right sub block over right side down onto the center 4 ½” block and sew your seam down the right side.
7. Rows five and six are sewn together the same as step 4.
8. Now we have three rows to work with. Flip row one, right side down, onto row two, and matching points pin and sew and seam across the top. Press open, don’t forget the water drops on seam points, and place back in layout. Now we are down to two rows.
9. Take the last row flip it, right side down, up onto the bottom of the first row. Match points and pin, sewn your last seam across the bottom, press open and you are done!
5. Repeat the same process for row 2. Lastly flip row one down right sides together onto row 2, sew your seam across the top matching points, I put an ultra thin pin (because I can sew over them) into each point and at the beginning and end of the row at approximately ¼” in. Press the seam open, putting a drop of water at each point to flatten it, and return to layout right side up.
6. For rows 3 & 4 your 2 ½” blocks are surrounding the center 4 ½” square, therefore you sew the first two sub blocks of both rows together first and place them back into position, then sew the last two sub blocks together and place them back into position right side up. Now take the 1st sub block of row 3 and flip it right side down on the 1st sub block of row 4. Sew your ¼” seam across the top matching points, press the seams open using a drop of water on the points to flatten the seam. Place back in the layout. Then repeat with the last two subblocks for row 3 & 4, placing them back into the layout. Now still working on the center section, all right sides up, flip your new combined subblock on the left over onto the center 4 ½” square, sew your seam on the left side, press open and return to layout then flip the right sub block over right side down onto the center 4 ½” block and sew your seam down the right side.
7. Rows five and six are sewn together the same as step 4.
8. Now we have three rows to work with. Flip row one, right side down, onto row two, and matching points pin and sew and seam across the top. Press open, don’t forget the water drops on seam points, and place back in layout. Now we are down to two rows.
9. Take the last row flip it, right side down, up onto the bottom of the first row. Match points and pin, sewn your last seam across the bottom, press open and you are done!
April 2024
FOOL's PUZZLE BlocK
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9 ½” unfinished
Cut 2 squares @ 5 ¾” and subcut diagonally twice for a total of 8 triangles of any color solid fabric.
Cut 1, or more if using directional printed fabrics, squares @ 5 ¾”. Subcut diagonally twice.
Cut 4 squares, or more if using directional fabric, @ 3 1/8”. Subcut diagonally once.
Cut 2 squares @ 5 ¾” and subcut diagonally twice for a total of 8 triangles of any color solid fabric.
Cut 1, or more if using directional printed fabrics, squares @ 5 ¾”. Subcut diagonally twice.
Cut 4 squares, or more if using directional fabric, @ 3 1/8”. Subcut diagonally once.
Now work on the right side column. It is worked the same as the left column but the triangles end up facing in the opposite direction when replaced back into the layout. The directions are the same as for the left side above, but when placing back into the layout, the solid triangles should point to the right edge of the block.
Next let’s work on the center column of which you can see most of to the
<-- left, You will be making two flying geese blocks (top and bottom) and the four triangle center square. There are four solid triangles: The top and bottom are used in the flying geese blocks. The left and right solid triangles are used in the 4 triangle center square along with the 2 large printed triangles.
Grab the top solid block and finger crease the two sides by matching your long edge point to the 90 degree point, one side at a time. Then get one of the small printed triangles next to the solid triangle and put the two long edge points together and finger press in the center of the long edge. Flip the Printed triangle down onto the side of the solid triangle and match and pin at the two crease points. Then pin again about ¼” from the edges. The printed fabric long edges should be longer than the side of the solid triangle, so that we have our ¼” wide seam allowance down the sewing edge. Sew the seam, press open. Next grab the other small printed triangle and attach to the other side of the solid triangle using the same instructions as above.
Press seam open, trim dog ears, replace resulting block back into the layout.
Do the same for the bottom flying geese!
Now let’s work on the center 4-part triangle square. For this section DO NOT OFFSET your points!
Grab the left solid triangle and flip it over onto the top printed triangle right side up, sew a ¼” seam down the left side of the resulting sandwich, 90 degree angle should be angling down and long edge should be across top; both points should meet on this, 90 degree to 90 degree and long edge point to long edge point. Press seam open, trim dog ears, and replace in layout. Repeat this with the other 2 large triangles, flipping the printed triangle right side down, onto the solid triangle on the center right. Match those points and sew down the left side seam. Press seam open, trim dog ears, and place in layout. Now take the top 2-part triangle and flip it right side down onto the bottom 2-part triangle. Pin in the center of the seams. Then match the outer edge points and pin ¼” from the edges and again between the edge point and center seam point on both sides. Sew seam, press open, trim dog ears. Place back in layout.
Now you need to attach the top flying geese to the top of the 4-part triangle. Finger press the center of the solid triangle on the long edge. Finger press the center of the top Printed triangle on the 4–part center square. Flip top flying geese down right side down on the top of the 4-part center square and match the creases and pin. Then pin close to either end. Sew your ¼’ seam, press seams open, using water drops in the thicker points of the seam and steaming them down. Next attach the bottom flying geese block following the same procedure.
Now attach the left column to the center column, pinning seam points. Again press seams open, using water drops at thick seam points. Then attach the right side column to the Center column, doing the same Thing. |This is not real hard, but it takes a little getting used to working on side seams. However, it does cause less stretching then working on the long edge of triangle.
Next let’s work on the center column of which you can see most of to the
<-- left, You will be making two flying geese blocks (top and bottom) and the four triangle center square. There are four solid triangles: The top and bottom are used in the flying geese blocks. The left and right solid triangles are used in the 4 triangle center square along with the 2 large printed triangles.
Grab the top solid block and finger crease the two sides by matching your long edge point to the 90 degree point, one side at a time. Then get one of the small printed triangles next to the solid triangle and put the two long edge points together and finger press in the center of the long edge. Flip the Printed triangle down onto the side of the solid triangle and match and pin at the two crease points. Then pin again about ¼” from the edges. The printed fabric long edges should be longer than the side of the solid triangle, so that we have our ¼” wide seam allowance down the sewing edge. Sew the seam, press open. Next grab the other small printed triangle and attach to the other side of the solid triangle using the same instructions as above.
Press seam open, trim dog ears, replace resulting block back into the layout.
Do the same for the bottom flying geese!
Now let’s work on the center 4-part triangle square. For this section DO NOT OFFSET your points!
Grab the left solid triangle and flip it over onto the top printed triangle right side up, sew a ¼” seam down the left side of the resulting sandwich, 90 degree angle should be angling down and long edge should be across top; both points should meet on this, 90 degree to 90 degree and long edge point to long edge point. Press seam open, trim dog ears, and replace in layout. Repeat this with the other 2 large triangles, flipping the printed triangle right side down, onto the solid triangle on the center right. Match those points and sew down the left side seam. Press seam open, trim dog ears, and place in layout. Now take the top 2-part triangle and flip it right side down onto the bottom 2-part triangle. Pin in the center of the seams. Then match the outer edge points and pin ¼” from the edges and again between the edge point and center seam point on both sides. Sew seam, press open, trim dog ears. Place back in layout.
Now you need to attach the top flying geese to the top of the 4-part triangle. Finger press the center of the solid triangle on the long edge. Finger press the center of the top Printed triangle on the 4–part center square. Flip top flying geese down right side down on the top of the 4-part center square and match the creases and pin. Then pin close to either end. Sew your ¼’ seam, press seams open, using water drops in the thicker points of the seam and steaming them down. Next attach the bottom flying geese block following the same procedure.
Now attach the left column to the center column, pinning seam points. Again press seams open, using water drops at thick seam points. Then attach the right side column to the Center column, doing the same Thing. |This is not real hard, but it takes a little getting used to working on side seams. However, it does cause less stretching then working on the long edge of triangle.
March 2024
CUPS & SauceRS BlocK
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FEbruary 2024
True lover's Knot BlocK
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JANUARY 2024
sew & sew BLOCK
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DECEMBER 2023
TWINKLING WREATH BLOCK
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November 2023
LIGHT HOUSE BLock
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OCTOBER 2023
Bright hope BLock
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SEPTEMBER 2023
LITTLE RED SCHOOL HOUSE BLock
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AUGUST 2023
HILL & VALLEY BLock
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JULY 2023
ROLLING PINWHEEL BLock
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JUNE 2023
WHEEL OF FORTUNE BLock
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MAY 2023
TULIP TIME BLock
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APRIL 2023
MILKY WAY BLock
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MARCH 2023
BIRDs NEST BLock
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February 2023
Cherry tree BLock
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DECEMBER 2022
cardinal BLock
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november 2022
CHRISTMAS TREE BLock
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september 2022
snails trail BLock
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August 2022
Lady of the Lake BLock
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july 2022
TALL SHIP block
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june 2022
state house block
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may 2022
Devil's claw block
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April 2022
Bird of paradise
Click to open PDF instructions and template
March 2022
Double Irish chain
Click to open PDF instructions
February 2022
"Heart"
Click to open PDF Instructions & actual applique template
January 2022
"Album Patch"
Click to open PDF instructions
december 2020
"disapearing Block"
Click to open PDF instructions
november 2020
"maple leaf"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
october 2020
"Sawtooth star" or "square on points"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
september 2020
"square in square"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
august 2020
"rail fence"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
june/july 2020
"july fourth - fifty-four forty or fight"
note: please use red, white/cream and blue fabric
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
March 2020
"ground cover"
note: please use fabric with high contrast
February 2020
"four leaf clover"
note: block to be done in green and white
(applique' is optional)
Pattern by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
june 2019
"buzzsaw"
note: block to be done in red, white & blue
May 2019
"Flight of Swallows"
Note: Block to be done in blue & white
Pattern by Marica Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
April 2019
"Log Cabin Stars"
March 2019
"Churn Dash"
February 2019
"Starburst"
January 2019
"Spool"
December 2018
"Shooting Star"
November 2018
"Road to California"
October 2018
Flame
August & September 2018
Pinwheel
July 2018
4th of July
June 2018
Hot Air Balloon
Instructions: Click here
Pattern: Click here
May 2018
Butterfly
April 2018
Go Fly a Kite
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March 2018
Out Like a Lamb
Permission to use by Original Designer Nancy Hicks
February 2018
Playful Hearts
Original design from sewmamyblocks.com
December 2017
Starflakes
October/November 2017
Pumpkin Patch
September 2017
Back to School
August 2017
Sunburn
July 2017
Uncle Sam's Bowtie
June 2017
Log Cabin Watermelon
May 2017
Wild Spring Poppies
March 2017
Friendship Block
Guidelines
Using fabrics from your own stash create a quilt block based on the guild pattern and instructions provided. There is no limit regarding the number of blocks entered however, fabrics should vary to maintain a scrappy feel.
Additional information you should know:
- For each block completed, write your full name on a small piece of paper, and attach to the completed block with a pin.
- Bring your completed blocks to the general meeting. Blocks will be displayed for members to see. For each block completed, enter your name in the drawing.
- If you are unable to attend the meeting, but want to participate in Block of the Month, please arrange to have completed blocks at the general meeting either by contacting the chairman in advance or asking a quilting friend to help.
- At a specified time at the general meeting, based on participation, one or more names will be drawn to win quilt blocks. Example: If we receive 30 blocks, we will have two winners. The first winner will pick 15 blocks; the second winner will receive the remaining. There will be no limit to the number of times you can win.
- In fairness to all, if blocks are incorrect in size, have an obvious error, or are incomplete, will be returned to the maker and will not be eligible for the drawing.
Additional information you should know:
- Please use 100% cotton fabric. Wash and preshrink fabric and test for colorfastness before constructing your block.
- Measure fabric and cut accurate to insure proper block construction. It is very important to accurately construct your block using 1/4 inch seam allowances.
- Press seams. Use an up and down motion as not to distort fabric.
- There should be no need to "square up" if pieces are cut correctly, have been sewn with proper seam allowances, and pressed properly without distortion. (Your very best work is expected.)
- Finished size of the block is the actual size of the block when sewn into a quilt top. Unfinished size is the block with seam allowances. So, if you are making a 6" block finished in a quilt, the unfinished size should measure 6-1/2" because of the 1/4" seam allowance. I hope this makes sense!