Block of the Month Directions
Click on block to view instructions or go to the website provided. Please familiarize yourself with the guidelines below before making your block. Questions? Contact Block of the Month Chairman Betty Fessler, Bjfessler@aim.com.
JULY 2023
ROLLING PINWHEEL BLock
DUE AT AUGUST MEETING
Click image to open PDF instruction
12 ½” unfinished
If you are turning your square in, please use cotton fabric.
From you background fabric;
Cut 8 – 2 ½” squares.
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
Cut 2 – 4 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
Cut 1 – 5 ¼” square, cut diagonally twice.
From whatever you use in place of the red fabric;
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
From whatever you use in place of the blue fabric;
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
Cut 1 – 5 ¼” square, cut diagonally twice.
Stack your triangles by size within color.
Take 1 background triangle from the 2 7/8” triangles and match it to one of the red 2 7/8” triangles sew together on the long diagonal edge. Press open. Trim dog ears and trim to a 2 ½” square. Repeat 3 more times to give you 4 half square triangle squares, place in a stack with the red on top pointing the right. Next take 4 of the 8 – 2 ½” background squares and sew one to the top of each of the red half square triangles you just made. Press open and set these aside.
Now take 1 of the background triangles cut from the 5 ¼” square, this is the center triangle of a flying geese unit. We will make 4 of these. Next get your 8 blue triangles made from the 2 7/8” squares. Take one and attach to either to the left or right diagonal edge on the background triangle, long diagonal edge of blue triangle to the shorter diagonal edges of the background triangle. Line up at the bottom edge of the larger background triangle, giving yourself a 1/4” seam allowance. The blue triangle tip will go past the center point of the background triangle and should end up going past the top point as well, the straight edge of the blue triangle should go straight up on the side of the background triangle when it is pressed open. Do this for all four of the background triangles of the same size, on the same side. Press seams open, trim dog ears. Next take the remaining blue triangles from the 2 7/8” squares and place on the opposite side of the background triangles, lining up and sew together. Press seams open, trim dog ears and check your flying geese units for size. You need ¼” of the blue above the point on the background fabric. The entire flying geese unit should be 2 ½” X 4 ½”. If you need to, put a drop of water on the back of the flying geese point and press to make if lay flat!
Next take the other 4 of the 8 – 2 1/2” background squares, and attach one to the left side of the each of the 4 flying geese units you just made, point up. Press seams open and set aside.
Now we’ve completed the left side and bottom. Next take your blue middle size triangle units made from the 5 ¼” square and also get your remaining 4 background triangles made from the 2 7/8” squares. Match the background triangle to the top left diagonal edge of the blue triangle, same as we did on the flying geese unit. Sew, press seams open. Trim dog ears. Next take the remaining 4 – red triangles. Place these on top of the background triangle we just attached to the blue middle sized triangle line up down the left side and top edge of the background triangle. These two smaller triangles will now be side to side and we will sew together on the top edge, not the diagonal edge. Press seam open, use water drop trick to flatten. Trim dog ears. You have now made a larger triangle of 3 different colors. Repeat 3 more times. Next take one 4 large background triangles made from the 4 7/8” squares and match them to the 3 color triangle lining the top point of the background triangle to the left point of the blue large triangle and then the two other points to the red and right blue point. Sew ¼” inch seam down the long edge of the background triangle. I would place the background triangle down to the feed dogs, and the 3 color triangle up so that when sewing I can see the points I have to meet guiding my seam to the points, point by point. The edges should meet, but if they don’t go by the background triangle. Press seams open, using water drops to flatten the thicker areas. Trim this to a 4 ½” square, using the seam line you just sewed as your guide. Make three more.
Next take one of the first four half square triangle units (red + background) with the background square on top and sew it to the left of the large 4 ½” square we just made, matching red point to red point. Press seams open, again using water drops to flatten seam. Do this to the other 3 matching units.
Now take the flying geese units we made (blue + background) and attach them the bottom of the units we just made, matching blue to blue. Press seams open, using water to flatten the seams. These sub blocks should now be 6 ½” X 6 ½”s. Trim if needed.
Place all sub blocks in a stack, all facing the same direction, with the blue on the bottom right, the red on top left, and the large background triangle on the top right. Place them to the top left of your layout area. Take the top 3 blocks, leaving one block in place, turn the stack once to the right and place it to right side of the first block. Leave the bottom sub block again, and take the stack of 2, turn it once again to the right and place if below the second sub block you just left. Now take the last sub block, turn it once to the right and place it below the first sub block you left. It should look like the picture! Sew seams together matching points, press open using water drops on the seam points. When all done, it should measure 12 ½”s square.
If you are turning your square in, please use cotton fabric.
From you background fabric;
Cut 8 – 2 ½” squares.
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
Cut 2 – 4 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
Cut 1 – 5 ¼” square, cut diagonally twice.
From whatever you use in place of the red fabric;
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
From whatever you use in place of the blue fabric;
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once.
Cut 1 – 5 ¼” square, cut diagonally twice.
Stack your triangles by size within color.
Take 1 background triangle from the 2 7/8” triangles and match it to one of the red 2 7/8” triangles sew together on the long diagonal edge. Press open. Trim dog ears and trim to a 2 ½” square. Repeat 3 more times to give you 4 half square triangle squares, place in a stack with the red on top pointing the right. Next take 4 of the 8 – 2 ½” background squares and sew one to the top of each of the red half square triangles you just made. Press open and set these aside.
Now take 1 of the background triangles cut from the 5 ¼” square, this is the center triangle of a flying geese unit. We will make 4 of these. Next get your 8 blue triangles made from the 2 7/8” squares. Take one and attach to either to the left or right diagonal edge on the background triangle, long diagonal edge of blue triangle to the shorter diagonal edges of the background triangle. Line up at the bottom edge of the larger background triangle, giving yourself a 1/4” seam allowance. The blue triangle tip will go past the center point of the background triangle and should end up going past the top point as well, the straight edge of the blue triangle should go straight up on the side of the background triangle when it is pressed open. Do this for all four of the background triangles of the same size, on the same side. Press seams open, trim dog ears. Next take the remaining blue triangles from the 2 7/8” squares and place on the opposite side of the background triangles, lining up and sew together. Press seams open, trim dog ears and check your flying geese units for size. You need ¼” of the blue above the point on the background fabric. The entire flying geese unit should be 2 ½” X 4 ½”. If you need to, put a drop of water on the back of the flying geese point and press to make if lay flat!
Next take the other 4 of the 8 – 2 1/2” background squares, and attach one to the left side of the each of the 4 flying geese units you just made, point up. Press seams open and set aside.
Now we’ve completed the left side and bottom. Next take your blue middle size triangle units made from the 5 ¼” square and also get your remaining 4 background triangles made from the 2 7/8” squares. Match the background triangle to the top left diagonal edge of the blue triangle, same as we did on the flying geese unit. Sew, press seams open. Trim dog ears. Next take the remaining 4 – red triangles. Place these on top of the background triangle we just attached to the blue middle sized triangle line up down the left side and top edge of the background triangle. These two smaller triangles will now be side to side and we will sew together on the top edge, not the diagonal edge. Press seam open, use water drop trick to flatten. Trim dog ears. You have now made a larger triangle of 3 different colors. Repeat 3 more times. Next take one 4 large background triangles made from the 4 7/8” squares and match them to the 3 color triangle lining the top point of the background triangle to the left point of the blue large triangle and then the two other points to the red and right blue point. Sew ¼” inch seam down the long edge of the background triangle. I would place the background triangle down to the feed dogs, and the 3 color triangle up so that when sewing I can see the points I have to meet guiding my seam to the points, point by point. The edges should meet, but if they don’t go by the background triangle. Press seams open, using water drops to flatten the thicker areas. Trim this to a 4 ½” square, using the seam line you just sewed as your guide. Make three more.
Next take one of the first four half square triangle units (red + background) with the background square on top and sew it to the left of the large 4 ½” square we just made, matching red point to red point. Press seams open, again using water drops to flatten seam. Do this to the other 3 matching units.
Now take the flying geese units we made (blue + background) and attach them the bottom of the units we just made, matching blue to blue. Press seams open, using water to flatten the seams. These sub blocks should now be 6 ½” X 6 ½”s. Trim if needed.
Place all sub blocks in a stack, all facing the same direction, with the blue on the bottom right, the red on top left, and the large background triangle on the top right. Place them to the top left of your layout area. Take the top 3 blocks, leaving one block in place, turn the stack once to the right and place it to right side of the first block. Leave the bottom sub block again, and take the stack of 2, turn it once again to the right and place if below the second sub block you just left. Now take the last sub block, turn it once to the right and place it below the first sub block you left. It should look like the picture! Sew seams together matching points, press open using water drops on the seam points. When all done, it should measure 12 ½”s square.
JUNE 2023
WHEEL OF FORTUNE BLock
DUE AT JULY MEETING
Click image to open PDF instruction
10 ½” unfinished
10” finished
This is a fairly easy block. It has 4 flying geese sub-blocks. 8 half square triangle blocks and 3 – 2 ½” strips. I thought the block lended itself nicely to graphic prints, so, I fussy cut my pieces to get the elements I wanted. I’m pleased with it. I can see my block attempting to walk or roll away! Fat quarters should be fine with this. If fussy cutting, then lay all the pieces out in their positions before starting to sewing.
Choose your design fabric first and then choose the background to go with it!
From your design fabric:
Cut your strips first, 1 – 2 ½” X 10 ½” strip and 2 – 2 ½” X 4 ½” strips.
You will need 1 - 5 ¼” square, cut diagonally twice. These will be the center triangles of your 4 flying geese.
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once, giving you 8 triangles.
From your background fabric:
Cut 8 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once, giving you 16 triangles.
Lay all your fabric pieces out in proper position so that you can grab one section at a time, sew it and put it back in place and not lose your place on any fussy cut fabrics.
Step 1) Making your flying geese blocks; Take one of the background half square triangles and lay it right sides together, lining it up even with the bottom long edge of the design fabric center triangle and allowing for a ¼” seam allowance along the length of the seam. The top edge should be higher then then point at the tip of the triangle and should extend past it as well. Sew your quarter inch seam. Press the seam open. Next take the other side background half square triangle and lay it right sides together on the other side of the design fabric center triangle. Line it up again with the long bottom edge of the center design fabric triangle again assuring that you have ¼’’seam allowance for the length of the seam, and sew your quarter inch seam. Press your seam open. This sub-block should finish at 2 ½” X 4 ½” after trimming. Trim using a ruler that is at least 2 ½” X 4 ½”, placing your ruler on the block so that the sides of the block are in the 2 ½” markings and the length is within the 4 ½” markings and so that the top edge of the background fabrics that crossed over each other on the top point of the center triangle extends ¼“ above the point, as seam allowance for joining to other blocks. Trim excess on top. Trim the width edges if needed so that they are straight but still in the width and length requirements. Put the trimmed flying geese sub-block back into your layout. Do the other 3 flying geese blocks the same way. Remember if you start on the left side of the center triangle, then start on the left side on all 4 flying geese.
Step 2) Making your half square triangle blocks; Take one of the background triangles and sew it right side together with one of the design fabric triangles, press seams open and trim the half square triangle block to 2 ½’ square. Place it back in the layout and repeat with the second set. Then place the 2 - half square triangle blocks right sides together and sew them together making sure you are sewing design fabric to design fabric. Press the seam open. And place back in your layout. Do all the remaining half square triangle blocks the same way. Lastly sew the bottom of the flying geese blocks to the long side of the 2 sewn half square blocks and press open, place a drop of water with the sprayer on your iron, or an old eye dropper, or medicine dropper that is clean where the thickest parts of your seams are, usually where points meet, and press again. These sub-blocks should now be 4 ½ X 4 ½”, trim if needed. Put them back into your layout.
Step 3) Sewing your sub-blocks together; Take the top left 4 ½” sub-block and place the 2 ½” X 4 ½” design fabric strip right side down on the right side of the sub-block, I would turn it over and place it strip down and then sew your ¼’ seam down the side, that way you can see where your points that you need to make/meet are. Press the seam open. Now take the right side 4 ½” sub-block and place it right side down on top of the strip you just pressed and line it up down the right side of the strip, place it strip down to the machine and again sew your ¼” seam and press open. Remember the water drop trick for steam pressing the thick areas of the seam. This sub-block is now 4 ½” X 10 ½”.
Do the same thing for the bottom 2 - 4 ½” sub-blocks and the 2 ½” x 4 ½” design fabric strip.
Lastly use the same technique for sewing the long 2 ½” X 10 ½“ design fabric strip between the 2 – 4 ½” X 10 ½” newly created sub-blocks. Press seams open. Finished block should be 10 ½” X 10 ½”.
10” finished
This is a fairly easy block. It has 4 flying geese sub-blocks. 8 half square triangle blocks and 3 – 2 ½” strips. I thought the block lended itself nicely to graphic prints, so, I fussy cut my pieces to get the elements I wanted. I’m pleased with it. I can see my block attempting to walk or roll away! Fat quarters should be fine with this. If fussy cutting, then lay all the pieces out in their positions before starting to sewing.
Choose your design fabric first and then choose the background to go with it!
From your design fabric:
Cut your strips first, 1 – 2 ½” X 10 ½” strip and 2 – 2 ½” X 4 ½” strips.
You will need 1 - 5 ¼” square, cut diagonally twice. These will be the center triangles of your 4 flying geese.
Cut 4 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once, giving you 8 triangles.
From your background fabric:
Cut 8 – 2 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once, giving you 16 triangles.
Lay all your fabric pieces out in proper position so that you can grab one section at a time, sew it and put it back in place and not lose your place on any fussy cut fabrics.
Step 1) Making your flying geese blocks; Take one of the background half square triangles and lay it right sides together, lining it up even with the bottom long edge of the design fabric center triangle and allowing for a ¼” seam allowance along the length of the seam. The top edge should be higher then then point at the tip of the triangle and should extend past it as well. Sew your quarter inch seam. Press the seam open. Next take the other side background half square triangle and lay it right sides together on the other side of the design fabric center triangle. Line it up again with the long bottom edge of the center design fabric triangle again assuring that you have ¼’’seam allowance for the length of the seam, and sew your quarter inch seam. Press your seam open. This sub-block should finish at 2 ½” X 4 ½” after trimming. Trim using a ruler that is at least 2 ½” X 4 ½”, placing your ruler on the block so that the sides of the block are in the 2 ½” markings and the length is within the 4 ½” markings and so that the top edge of the background fabrics that crossed over each other on the top point of the center triangle extends ¼“ above the point, as seam allowance for joining to other blocks. Trim excess on top. Trim the width edges if needed so that they are straight but still in the width and length requirements. Put the trimmed flying geese sub-block back into your layout. Do the other 3 flying geese blocks the same way. Remember if you start on the left side of the center triangle, then start on the left side on all 4 flying geese.
Step 2) Making your half square triangle blocks; Take one of the background triangles and sew it right side together with one of the design fabric triangles, press seams open and trim the half square triangle block to 2 ½’ square. Place it back in the layout and repeat with the second set. Then place the 2 - half square triangle blocks right sides together and sew them together making sure you are sewing design fabric to design fabric. Press the seam open. And place back in your layout. Do all the remaining half square triangle blocks the same way. Lastly sew the bottom of the flying geese blocks to the long side of the 2 sewn half square blocks and press open, place a drop of water with the sprayer on your iron, or an old eye dropper, or medicine dropper that is clean where the thickest parts of your seams are, usually where points meet, and press again. These sub-blocks should now be 4 ½ X 4 ½”, trim if needed. Put them back into your layout.
Step 3) Sewing your sub-blocks together; Take the top left 4 ½” sub-block and place the 2 ½” X 4 ½” design fabric strip right side down on the right side of the sub-block, I would turn it over and place it strip down and then sew your ¼’ seam down the side, that way you can see where your points that you need to make/meet are. Press the seam open. Now take the right side 4 ½” sub-block and place it right side down on top of the strip you just pressed and line it up down the right side of the strip, place it strip down to the machine and again sew your ¼” seam and press open. Remember the water drop trick for steam pressing the thick areas of the seam. This sub-block is now 4 ½” X 10 ½”.
Do the same thing for the bottom 2 - 4 ½” sub-blocks and the 2 ½” x 4 ½” design fabric strip.
Lastly use the same technique for sewing the long 2 ½” X 10 ½“ design fabric strip between the 2 – 4 ½” X 10 ½” newly created sub-blocks. Press seams open. Finished block should be 10 ½” X 10 ½”.
MAY 2023
TULIP TIME BLock
DUE AT JUNE MEETING
Click image to open PDF instruction
“Will spring showers bring May flowers” ? We hope so…
8 ½” X 12 ½” unfinished.
A fairly quick and easy block. I used fat quarters. You will need a light and a medium dark or dark color for the flower. A different color for your stem and leaves. A background color. This pattern uses a template for one section of the leaf area.
Directions are for one block. Seams are ¼ inch.
Cut 1 square from your light colored flower fabric at
2 5/8 inches.
Cut 2 squares from your darker flower fabric at 3 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 2 squares from your stem and leaf fabric at 2 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 1 strip from your stem and leaf fabric at 1 X 6 ½ inches.
Cut 2 rectangles from your stem and leaf fabric at 2 ½ X 4 ½ inches.
From your background fabric;
Cut 2 strips at 1 ½ X 6 ½ inches.
Cut 1 square at 3 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 3 squares at 2 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 4 rectangles at 2 ½ X 4 ½ inches.
1. Put your light flower fabric square on point in front of you. Take one of the triangles cut from the background fabric from the 2 7/8 inch squares place it next to the top left side of the flower square, long edge up! Place right sides together and line up from the bottom, it will stick past the top of the square, which is fine. Sew your seam on the top left side of the square. Press seam open. Now take another one of the same size background triangles and place it next to the top right side of the light fabric square long edge up, fold it over the square placing right sides together and lining up starting at the bottom of that top right side of the light flower fabric. Sew the seam, press open. Now to trim the excess fabric off the top. Take at least a 6 ½ inch ruler and place it across the top of the light color fabric square. The top point of that square should be at 3 ¼ inches from either side and so should the bottom point below it. Now push the ruler up ¼ inch, so that you will have ¼ inch seam allowance above that point which is in the middle of the long edge of the new triangle block you just created in background and light flower color. Trim off anything above that ¼” seam allowance.
2. Next take one of the dark flower fabric triangles created from the 3 7/8 inch squares, fold it in half from the middle of the long edge to the point where the two sides meet and finger press. Open it back up , placing the dark colored triangle right sides down and lining the crease along the seam between the two colors of the bottom triangle on the left side. The back point of the dark triangle should meet the top point of the 2 colored triangle center square and cover the left half of the 2 color triangle. Sew the long edge of the dark colored triangle to the left half of the 2 colored triangle. You are working with the bigger 2 color triangle as if it is only 3 ½ inches long instead of 6 ½”s. Press the seam open. Do the same thing with another dark flower fabric triangle of the same size to the right side of the 2 colored triangle. Press seam open, This section should be now be 3 ½ inches wide and 6 ½ inches long. Trim if needed.
Now we will work on the bottom part, leaf and stem, of the block.
3. Next take the remaining 2 dark flower fabric triangles and sew them to the 2 background fabric triangles made from the 3 7/8 inch square. Press open, trim to 3 ½” squares. Then sew them together dark fabric to dark fabric and background fabric facing down and out. This should now measure 3 ½ inches by 6 ½ inches. This can now be sewn to the bottom of the top part of the flower. The whole flower when sewn will measure 6 ½ inches by 6 ½ inches. Trim if needed. Lastly sew the 2 background fabric 1 ½” wide strips down either side of the flower block making it 8 ½ inches wide X 6 ½ inches.
4. Take your 4 leaf and stem colored triangles and match them up with the 4 remaining background triangles and make 4 half-square triangle blocks, two with leaf and stem color facing to the right and two with leaf and stem color facing to the left. Press seams open and trim to 2 ½” squares. Take two of the blocks, one facing in each direction and sew them both to the top of one of the 2 ½” X 4 ½” background rectangles. Press seam open. The resulting strips should be 2 ½” X 6 ½”.
5. Next take the two stem and leaf 2 ½” x 4 ½” rectangles, line them up, if printed fabric make them wrong sides together, place the triangle template (it takes more then half the rectangle), down the long edge of the rectangles and cut out the triangle, discard the smaller side. We won’t use it. Do the same with the remaining 2 background fabric 2 ½” X 4 ½” rectangles. Next place the large end of a leaf and stem colored triangle right sides together with the small end of a background triangle just created and sew a ¼” seam down the long edge of the two triangles. Press open and trim to 2 ½” X 4 ½”. Basically your should just be trimming ears off. Set these down with background fabric together, large end up. Next take the remain two half squares triangle squares of stem and leaf fabric and background fabric, and place them at the bottom of the 2 colored rectangles, stem and leaf color up to the large end of the same colored fabric in the rectangle. Check your placement against the picture. Flip the 2 ½” half triangle square block up onto the bottom of the rectangle right side together and seam them together on the bottom. Press open. This strip you now measure 2 ½” wide X 6 ½” long.
6. Take these two strips place them between the 2 strips from step number 4, check the picture for placement,
7. Leaf and stem fabric will flow from the top outer edge down the bottom inner edge. Sew the two left strips together and press open, then trim 1/8” down the long inner edge, where the stem will go. Then sew the two right strips together and trim 1/8” down the long inner edge of the right side. Next take the 1” X 6 ½” strip of leaf and stem fabric and sew down the two inner trimmed sides with ¼” seams. Press these seams to the leaf and stem strip. The resultant block should measure 8 ½” wide by 6 ½” long. Trim if needed.
The leaf and stem portion of the block is now done.
8. Lastly attach the flower portion of the block to the leaf and stem portion of the block, the bottom point of the flower should be in the center of the top of the stem, on the leaf and stem portion of the block when done, and the block should measure at 8 ½” X 12 ½”
Click Here to download Template.
8 ½” X 12 ½” unfinished.
A fairly quick and easy block. I used fat quarters. You will need a light and a medium dark or dark color for the flower. A different color for your stem and leaves. A background color. This pattern uses a template for one section of the leaf area.
Directions are for one block. Seams are ¼ inch.
Cut 1 square from your light colored flower fabric at
2 5/8 inches.
Cut 2 squares from your darker flower fabric at 3 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 2 squares from your stem and leaf fabric at 2 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 1 strip from your stem and leaf fabric at 1 X 6 ½ inches.
Cut 2 rectangles from your stem and leaf fabric at 2 ½ X 4 ½ inches.
From your background fabric;
Cut 2 strips at 1 ½ X 6 ½ inches.
Cut 1 square at 3 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 3 squares at 2 7/8 inches, cut diagonally once.
Cut 4 rectangles at 2 ½ X 4 ½ inches.
1. Put your light flower fabric square on point in front of you. Take one of the triangles cut from the background fabric from the 2 7/8 inch squares place it next to the top left side of the flower square, long edge up! Place right sides together and line up from the bottom, it will stick past the top of the square, which is fine. Sew your seam on the top left side of the square. Press seam open. Now take another one of the same size background triangles and place it next to the top right side of the light fabric square long edge up, fold it over the square placing right sides together and lining up starting at the bottom of that top right side of the light flower fabric. Sew the seam, press open. Now to trim the excess fabric off the top. Take at least a 6 ½ inch ruler and place it across the top of the light color fabric square. The top point of that square should be at 3 ¼ inches from either side and so should the bottom point below it. Now push the ruler up ¼ inch, so that you will have ¼ inch seam allowance above that point which is in the middle of the long edge of the new triangle block you just created in background and light flower color. Trim off anything above that ¼” seam allowance.
2. Next take one of the dark flower fabric triangles created from the 3 7/8 inch squares, fold it in half from the middle of the long edge to the point where the two sides meet and finger press. Open it back up , placing the dark colored triangle right sides down and lining the crease along the seam between the two colors of the bottom triangle on the left side. The back point of the dark triangle should meet the top point of the 2 colored triangle center square and cover the left half of the 2 color triangle. Sew the long edge of the dark colored triangle to the left half of the 2 colored triangle. You are working with the bigger 2 color triangle as if it is only 3 ½ inches long instead of 6 ½”s. Press the seam open. Do the same thing with another dark flower fabric triangle of the same size to the right side of the 2 colored triangle. Press seam open, This section should be now be 3 ½ inches wide and 6 ½ inches long. Trim if needed.
Now we will work on the bottom part, leaf and stem, of the block.
3. Next take the remaining 2 dark flower fabric triangles and sew them to the 2 background fabric triangles made from the 3 7/8 inch square. Press open, trim to 3 ½” squares. Then sew them together dark fabric to dark fabric and background fabric facing down and out. This should now measure 3 ½ inches by 6 ½ inches. This can now be sewn to the bottom of the top part of the flower. The whole flower when sewn will measure 6 ½ inches by 6 ½ inches. Trim if needed. Lastly sew the 2 background fabric 1 ½” wide strips down either side of the flower block making it 8 ½ inches wide X 6 ½ inches.
4. Take your 4 leaf and stem colored triangles and match them up with the 4 remaining background triangles and make 4 half-square triangle blocks, two with leaf and stem color facing to the right and two with leaf and stem color facing to the left. Press seams open and trim to 2 ½” squares. Take two of the blocks, one facing in each direction and sew them both to the top of one of the 2 ½” X 4 ½” background rectangles. Press seam open. The resulting strips should be 2 ½” X 6 ½”.
5. Next take the two stem and leaf 2 ½” x 4 ½” rectangles, line them up, if printed fabric make them wrong sides together, place the triangle template (it takes more then half the rectangle), down the long edge of the rectangles and cut out the triangle, discard the smaller side. We won’t use it. Do the same with the remaining 2 background fabric 2 ½” X 4 ½” rectangles. Next place the large end of a leaf and stem colored triangle right sides together with the small end of a background triangle just created and sew a ¼” seam down the long edge of the two triangles. Press open and trim to 2 ½” X 4 ½”. Basically your should just be trimming ears off. Set these down with background fabric together, large end up. Next take the remain two half squares triangle squares of stem and leaf fabric and background fabric, and place them at the bottom of the 2 colored rectangles, stem and leaf color up to the large end of the same colored fabric in the rectangle. Check your placement against the picture. Flip the 2 ½” half triangle square block up onto the bottom of the rectangle right side together and seam them together on the bottom. Press open. This strip you now measure 2 ½” wide X 6 ½” long.
6. Take these two strips place them between the 2 strips from step number 4, check the picture for placement,
7. Leaf and stem fabric will flow from the top outer edge down the bottom inner edge. Sew the two left strips together and press open, then trim 1/8” down the long inner edge, where the stem will go. Then sew the two right strips together and trim 1/8” down the long inner edge of the right side. Next take the 1” X 6 ½” strip of leaf and stem fabric and sew down the two inner trimmed sides with ¼” seams. Press these seams to the leaf and stem strip. The resultant block should measure 8 ½” wide by 6 ½” long. Trim if needed.
The leaf and stem portion of the block is now done.
8. Lastly attach the flower portion of the block to the leaf and stem portion of the block, the bottom point of the flower should be in the center of the top of the stem, on the leaf and stem portion of the block when done, and the block should measure at 8 ½” X 12 ½”
Click Here to download Template.
APRIL 2023
MILKY WAY BLock
DUE AT MAY MEETING
Click image to open PDF instruction
12.5” finished
13” unfinished____________
Think of the four patches as having 2 small (distant) stars, mine are white, and 2 background patches, which in my case are blue. As you can see, I also have 2 large (closer up) stars in a bright yellow.
All blue is considered background on mine. I used a fat quarter of each of the colors for this block.
You may use any fabric and colors you like together. Directional fabric will require more planning. All seams are ¼”.
Knowing this, cut 2 strips of both the background color and the small star color at 1 ¾”. Sew one of each color together, these new strips will be 3” wide by either 18 or 22 inches long. Press seams open. Subcut this first strip set into 1 ¾”s down the length. For non-directional fabric; repeat for the second strip. For directional fabric; for the second strip set you will reverse the color order of the strip set and sew it together, so that one strip set has the star color on top and the second set will have the background on top. Press seams open. Now subcut the second set into 1 ¾” s as well, but keep them in a second pile, from the first group. You need nine pieces in each group.
Now take 5 of the 1 ¾” subcut strips with the white star color on top and lay them out then get 5 of the 1 ¾” strips with the background on top, and place these second pieces on top of each the first pieces right sides facing, sew them together down the right side matching seams. Press seams open. These should have the star fabric in the top left corner and bottom right corner. Next take the 4 remaining background on top 1 ¾” strips and lay them down separated out then place the remaining 4 star fabric on top 1 ¾” strips and place them right sides together on top of the 4 background on top strips and sew them together down the right side, matching seams. This group should have the background pieces in the top left corner and bottom right corner. Press seams open.
Trim all 4-patches down to 3” square by placing your diagonal line of a square 3 ½, 4 ½”, or 6 ½” square ruler, corner to corner through the center of the block and making sure that all four sides of the block fit within the first 3” markings of the ruler, trim the first 2 adjoining sides, then lift the ruler and flip your patch around and trim the other two adjoining sides the same way. Your block should now be as close to 3 inches as you can get it. You need nine of these finished 4-patch blocks. Five will have the star color in the top left and 4 will have the background in the top left corners.
Next cut 6 squares at 3 3/8” of both the background fabric and large yellow star fabric. Pay attention if using printed and directional fabrics. For directional fabrics I would cut once diagonally from 3 of each color from the bottom left corner to the top right corner. Separate into top and bottom pieces of each color. Sew 3 of the top star triangles to 3 of the bottom background triangles right sides facing, then sew the 3 top background pieces to the 3 bottom star pieces right sides facing. Press seams open, trim to 3” s. Place in different stacks as to color on top. The other 3 squares I would cut diagonally from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. Again, separate into top pieces and bottom pieces for each color, and sew together opposite colors together. Press seams open and trims to 3” s.
(If using solid fabrics just cut all 6 squares diagonally once then paying attention to color direction and which direction they need to face, flip them around or turn them over, then sew them together, press open and trim).
Lastly cut 2-3” squares of both the background and large star fabric. These are the centers of your big star patterns.
All finished sub-blocks should have been trimmed to 3 inches.
Looking at the picture, lay your sub-blocks out in rows paying attention to direction and position of colors.
Then sew the first row across together, you will not be matching points when doing this, but lining up the block accurately does matter. Press the seams open after each row. Next sew the second row across, then the third, and so on for the five rows.
Lastly when sewing row to row, this is where you will need to match seams and points of the triangle blocks!
This is where I pin, using ultra-thin pins, right thru the open seams, and right at the triangle color change seam for the points of the triangles.
I would sew row 1 to row 2, then sew row 3 to 4. Then row 5 to the bottom of row 4. Then the bottom of row 2 to the top of row three.
You are done!
13” unfinished____________
Think of the four patches as having 2 small (distant) stars, mine are white, and 2 background patches, which in my case are blue. As you can see, I also have 2 large (closer up) stars in a bright yellow.
All blue is considered background on mine. I used a fat quarter of each of the colors for this block.
You may use any fabric and colors you like together. Directional fabric will require more planning. All seams are ¼”.
Knowing this, cut 2 strips of both the background color and the small star color at 1 ¾”. Sew one of each color together, these new strips will be 3” wide by either 18 or 22 inches long. Press seams open. Subcut this first strip set into 1 ¾”s down the length. For non-directional fabric; repeat for the second strip. For directional fabric; for the second strip set you will reverse the color order of the strip set and sew it together, so that one strip set has the star color on top and the second set will have the background on top. Press seams open. Now subcut the second set into 1 ¾” s as well, but keep them in a second pile, from the first group. You need nine pieces in each group.
Now take 5 of the 1 ¾” subcut strips with the white star color on top and lay them out then get 5 of the 1 ¾” strips with the background on top, and place these second pieces on top of each the first pieces right sides facing, sew them together down the right side matching seams. Press seams open. These should have the star fabric in the top left corner and bottom right corner. Next take the 4 remaining background on top 1 ¾” strips and lay them down separated out then place the remaining 4 star fabric on top 1 ¾” strips and place them right sides together on top of the 4 background on top strips and sew them together down the right side, matching seams. This group should have the background pieces in the top left corner and bottom right corner. Press seams open.
Trim all 4-patches down to 3” square by placing your diagonal line of a square 3 ½, 4 ½”, or 6 ½” square ruler, corner to corner through the center of the block and making sure that all four sides of the block fit within the first 3” markings of the ruler, trim the first 2 adjoining sides, then lift the ruler and flip your patch around and trim the other two adjoining sides the same way. Your block should now be as close to 3 inches as you can get it. You need nine of these finished 4-patch blocks. Five will have the star color in the top left and 4 will have the background in the top left corners.
Next cut 6 squares at 3 3/8” of both the background fabric and large yellow star fabric. Pay attention if using printed and directional fabrics. For directional fabrics I would cut once diagonally from 3 of each color from the bottom left corner to the top right corner. Separate into top and bottom pieces of each color. Sew 3 of the top star triangles to 3 of the bottom background triangles right sides facing, then sew the 3 top background pieces to the 3 bottom star pieces right sides facing. Press seams open, trim to 3” s. Place in different stacks as to color on top. The other 3 squares I would cut diagonally from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. Again, separate into top pieces and bottom pieces for each color, and sew together opposite colors together. Press seams open and trims to 3” s.
(If using solid fabrics just cut all 6 squares diagonally once then paying attention to color direction and which direction they need to face, flip them around or turn them over, then sew them together, press open and trim).
Lastly cut 2-3” squares of both the background and large star fabric. These are the centers of your big star patterns.
All finished sub-blocks should have been trimmed to 3 inches.
Looking at the picture, lay your sub-blocks out in rows paying attention to direction and position of colors.
Then sew the first row across together, you will not be matching points when doing this, but lining up the block accurately does matter. Press the seams open after each row. Next sew the second row across, then the third, and so on for the five rows.
Lastly when sewing row to row, this is where you will need to match seams and points of the triangle blocks!
This is where I pin, using ultra-thin pins, right thru the open seams, and right at the triangle color change seam for the points of the triangles.
I would sew row 1 to row 2, then sew row 3 to 4. Then row 5 to the bottom of row 4. Then the bottom of row 2 to the top of row three.
You are done!
MARCH 2023
BIRDs NEST BLock
DUE AT APRIL MEETING
Click image to open PDF instruction
10 ½” unfinished
2 - 4 7/8” squares of colored fabric for the bird cut in half diagonally once.
2 – 2 7/8” squares of the same bird fabric cut in half diagonally once.
6 – 2 7/8” squares of white fabric cut in half diagonally, for the backside of the birds. This all for the four corner blocks.
9 – 2” squares of colored fabric for the nests, (center strips), that complement the bird fabric, trimmed to 1 15/16” (see note*)
Cut 6 squares of white fabric at 1 7/8”, cut diagonally once. These are for the ends of the nesting strips.
Cut 3 squares of white fabric at 3 ¼”, cut diagonally twice. These are for the sides of the nest.
(Note*; Most rulers and mats don’t have 16th of an inch markings. Just place your ruler between the 7/8” and 2” markings and trim down one side and then the adjoining top OR bottom of the block, but not both, of the square! It is important to do this or the center strip will be ½” too long!)
Making the birds: Match a tail triangle of the bird (small colored fabric with one of the like sized white triangles (both made from the 2 7/8” squares cut diagonally) right sides together and sew on the long edge of the triangle to make a square, press open. Trim to 2 ½”. Make 4 of these.
Take 2 of the same sized white triangles and lay next to the square you just made, as in the picture. You will sew these together on the sides, not on the long edges. The long edges need to be facing out. I lined the edge of the triangle on the side of the square starting equal to the small white seam allowance of the half square triangle, and then sewed down the colored edge of the square. Fold the white up and then press seam open, trim ears. Do the same to the other side of the bird tail. The sides of the white parts of this 4 part triangle should be 4 ½”. You need ¼” of white above the point of the colored tip in the middle for seam allowance.
Next place a large colored triangle face down on top of the 4 part triangle you just made, and match the back corners together, pin, then match the sides, then sew your ¼” seam along the long edge of the triangles, colored triangle down. Trim to a 4 ½” square. Make 4 of these! Your birds are now done.
Making the birds nest: There are two different sizes for the white triangles of the nesting strips. The ends are the triangles made from the white 1 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once. The side triangles are the ones made from the larger white 3 ¼” squares cut diagonally twice.
See the picture below;
2 - 4 7/8” squares of colored fabric for the bird cut in half diagonally once.
2 – 2 7/8” squares of the same bird fabric cut in half diagonally once.
6 – 2 7/8” squares of white fabric cut in half diagonally, for the backside of the birds. This all for the four corner blocks.
9 – 2” squares of colored fabric for the nests, (center strips), that complement the bird fabric, trimmed to 1 15/16” (see note*)
Cut 6 squares of white fabric at 1 7/8”, cut diagonally once. These are for the ends of the nesting strips.
Cut 3 squares of white fabric at 3 ¼”, cut diagonally twice. These are for the sides of the nest.
(Note*; Most rulers and mats don’t have 16th of an inch markings. Just place your ruler between the 7/8” and 2” markings and trim down one side and then the adjoining top OR bottom of the block, but not both, of the square! It is important to do this or the center strip will be ½” too long!)
Making the birds: Match a tail triangle of the bird (small colored fabric with one of the like sized white triangles (both made from the 2 7/8” squares cut diagonally) right sides together and sew on the long edge of the triangle to make a square, press open. Trim to 2 ½”. Make 4 of these.
Take 2 of the same sized white triangles and lay next to the square you just made, as in the picture. You will sew these together on the sides, not on the long edges. The long edges need to be facing out. I lined the edge of the triangle on the side of the square starting equal to the small white seam allowance of the half square triangle, and then sewed down the colored edge of the square. Fold the white up and then press seam open, trim ears. Do the same to the other side of the bird tail. The sides of the white parts of this 4 part triangle should be 4 ½”. You need ¼” of white above the point of the colored tip in the middle for seam allowance.
Next place a large colored triangle face down on top of the 4 part triangle you just made, and match the back corners together, pin, then match the sides, then sew your ¼” seam along the long edge of the triangles, colored triangle down. Trim to a 4 ½” square. Make 4 of these! Your birds are now done.
Making the birds nest: There are two different sizes for the white triangles of the nesting strips. The ends are the triangles made from the white 1 7/8” squares, cut diagonally once. The side triangles are the ones made from the larger white 3 ¼” squares cut diagonally twice.
See the picture below;
This is picture of the center strip laid on its side. I’ve marked the seams in black but also curved around the ends. You will make 3 strips. The two that go between the top and bottom birds you just made, only have the two end sections of the pictured strip and will be 2 ½” X 4 ½”s when done.
Take one of the complimentary colored squares and fold it in half and finger press the fold, then open it and do the same in the opposite direction, so that you marked the center of all 4 sides. I do this so I can easily see the marking. Then take 1 of the smallest white triangles and fold it down the center of the long edge to the point, finger press. Open it up, lay it on one of the sides of the colored square matching the finger pressed crease at the edge. Sew together with ¼” seam, press white triangle up, and trim ears even with sides of the colored square. Next choose an adjoining side of the colored square and do the same thing with another of the smallest white triangles. You should have a ¼” seam allowance above the colored point between the 2 white triangles for seam allowance. Lay this 3 piece section down as in the left of the above picture. Now you are going to take one of the white triangles made from the 3 ¼” squares (the middle sized triangles) next to the 3 piece section you just made, long edge facing up. You will line up the side of the triangle even with the bottom of the colored square, flip it over rights sides together and sew your 1/4” seam. Fold the white triangle up and trim ears. Again you should have a ¼” seam allowance on the new point created. The left side of you side strip is done.
Now look at the right side of the pictured center strip. Do the same as before but this time your larger white triangle will be facing down. When done you will butt these two strip ends up together, white sides of triangles to colored squares, points together and sew the two ends together. I press the seams open for bulk, you can drop some water on where the points meet and press it. Make two. These 2 strips should be 2 1/2” X 4 ½”s when finished.
You sew these between 2 of the bird blocks, top bird facing right and down into center, bottom bird facing right and up into center for the left side of the block. Do the second one top bird facing left and down, and bottom bird facing left and up. This way the birds face each other and center. These should end up being
4 1/2”s wide and 10 ½”s long.
To make your center strip, you make your two ends again, then make 3 strips of the larger white triangles from the 3 ¼” squares, longer edges facing out and add one to each opposite side of a colored square, one long edge will face up and one down when compared to the picture. Press open. Make three of these strips. Next sew two of these strips, right sides together, making sure you don’t sew color to color. Sew this group of 2 strips to one of the end pieces, long sides together rights sides facing, matching points. They will look strange, at right angles to each other, just make sure you are attaching the long edges together white to color. Press open. Now take the last center piece and sew it to the other remaining end piece the same way, long sides together and white to color. Press and trim. Lastly sew the two sides together making your center strip of 5 colored squares, point to point. You should have ¼” seam allowance on all unattached points. The ends of the strip should be 2 ½”s and the length of the strip should be 10 1/5”s. Sew this strip between the other 2 sections so that the birds are all facing it, matching points as needed. Press open and trim. The block should be 10 ½”s square. You are done!
Take one of the complimentary colored squares and fold it in half and finger press the fold, then open it and do the same in the opposite direction, so that you marked the center of all 4 sides. I do this so I can easily see the marking. Then take 1 of the smallest white triangles and fold it down the center of the long edge to the point, finger press. Open it up, lay it on one of the sides of the colored square matching the finger pressed crease at the edge. Sew together with ¼” seam, press white triangle up, and trim ears even with sides of the colored square. Next choose an adjoining side of the colored square and do the same thing with another of the smallest white triangles. You should have a ¼” seam allowance above the colored point between the 2 white triangles for seam allowance. Lay this 3 piece section down as in the left of the above picture. Now you are going to take one of the white triangles made from the 3 ¼” squares (the middle sized triangles) next to the 3 piece section you just made, long edge facing up. You will line up the side of the triangle even with the bottom of the colored square, flip it over rights sides together and sew your 1/4” seam. Fold the white triangle up and trim ears. Again you should have a ¼” seam allowance on the new point created. The left side of you side strip is done.
Now look at the right side of the pictured center strip. Do the same as before but this time your larger white triangle will be facing down. When done you will butt these two strip ends up together, white sides of triangles to colored squares, points together and sew the two ends together. I press the seams open for bulk, you can drop some water on where the points meet and press it. Make two. These 2 strips should be 2 1/2” X 4 ½”s when finished.
You sew these between 2 of the bird blocks, top bird facing right and down into center, bottom bird facing right and up into center for the left side of the block. Do the second one top bird facing left and down, and bottom bird facing left and up. This way the birds face each other and center. These should end up being
4 1/2”s wide and 10 ½”s long.
To make your center strip, you make your two ends again, then make 3 strips of the larger white triangles from the 3 ¼” squares, longer edges facing out and add one to each opposite side of a colored square, one long edge will face up and one down when compared to the picture. Press open. Make three of these strips. Next sew two of these strips, right sides together, making sure you don’t sew color to color. Sew this group of 2 strips to one of the end pieces, long sides together rights sides facing, matching points. They will look strange, at right angles to each other, just make sure you are attaching the long edges together white to color. Press open. Now take the last center piece and sew it to the other remaining end piece the same way, long sides together and white to color. Press and trim. Lastly sew the two sides together making your center strip of 5 colored squares, point to point. You should have ¼” seam allowance on all unattached points. The ends of the strip should be 2 ½”s and the length of the strip should be 10 1/5”s. Sew this strip between the other 2 sections so that the birds are all facing it, matching points as needed. Press open and trim. The block should be 10 ½”s square. You are done!
February 2023
Cherry tree BLock
DUE AT MARCH MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
LLQG Feb 2023 BOM – Cherry Tree
8” unfinished
This is a fairly easy block. I used fat quarters.
White fabric: cut 2 squares - 4 5/8”
cut 1 square – 3 3/8”
cut all in half diagonally once.
Green fabric: Cut 4 strips – 1 ¼” wide. Cut 1 square – 1 1/2”, and cut it once diagonally. Also Cut 1 – rectangle at 1 ¼” X 4” from your fourth strip. Red fabric: cut 3 strips – 1 ¼ wide.
1) Finger press the center of the two ends of the rectangle and finger press the long edge of the two green triangles. Match the triangle center to the rectangle end center and sew the two green triangles to the ends of the rectangle, press up and trim. Then sew the 2 smaller white triangles one to either side of the rectangle strip. That is the bottom left side of the inner square.
2) Sew two strip sets together of green/red/green and one strip set together of red/green/red. Cut all strip sets apart at 1 ¼”.
3) Sew 3 green/red/green strip pieces together to 3 red/green/red strip pieces together alternating strips so that no color is next to itself, press open.
4) Next sew the 3 strip sets you just made together and sew 1 more green/red/green piece to the end, so that this finished strip set starts and ends with G/R/G, and no color is next to a block of the same color, Containing a total of 7 individual strip sets. Press seams open. This is the top half of the inner block.
5) Now sew 2 red/green/red pieces to 2 green/red/green pieces. Press open, then sew these 2 sets together again, and press open again, for a finished block containing 4 individual strip sets.
6) Next trim your white and green square to fit to the left of the 4 piece strip set you just made in step 5 if needed and sew them together.
7) Now you can sew the 7 piece strip set you made in step 4 to the top of the half block you just made in step six.
8) Lastly you will make this into a square in a square block by sewing the 4 large white triangles onto the 4 sides of the cherry tree block. You can either go around the block in doing this, or side to side. Trim the block so that you have ¼” above the points of the inner tree block on all four edges. You are done!
8” unfinished
This is a fairly easy block. I used fat quarters.
White fabric: cut 2 squares - 4 5/8”
cut 1 square – 3 3/8”
cut all in half diagonally once.
Green fabric: Cut 4 strips – 1 ¼” wide. Cut 1 square – 1 1/2”, and cut it once diagonally. Also Cut 1 – rectangle at 1 ¼” X 4” from your fourth strip. Red fabric: cut 3 strips – 1 ¼ wide.
1) Finger press the center of the two ends of the rectangle and finger press the long edge of the two green triangles. Match the triangle center to the rectangle end center and sew the two green triangles to the ends of the rectangle, press up and trim. Then sew the 2 smaller white triangles one to either side of the rectangle strip. That is the bottom left side of the inner square.
2) Sew two strip sets together of green/red/green and one strip set together of red/green/red. Cut all strip sets apart at 1 ¼”.
3) Sew 3 green/red/green strip pieces together to 3 red/green/red strip pieces together alternating strips so that no color is next to itself, press open.
4) Next sew the 3 strip sets you just made together and sew 1 more green/red/green piece to the end, so that this finished strip set starts and ends with G/R/G, and no color is next to a block of the same color, Containing a total of 7 individual strip sets. Press seams open. This is the top half of the inner block.
5) Now sew 2 red/green/red pieces to 2 green/red/green pieces. Press open, then sew these 2 sets together again, and press open again, for a finished block containing 4 individual strip sets.
6) Next trim your white and green square to fit to the left of the 4 piece strip set you just made in step 5 if needed and sew them together.
7) Now you can sew the 7 piece strip set you made in step 4 to the top of the half block you just made in step six.
8) Lastly you will make this into a square in a square block by sewing the 4 large white triangles onto the 4 sides of the cherry tree block. You can either go around the block in doing this, or side to side. Trim the block so that you have ¼” above the points of the inner tree block on all four edges. You are done!
DECEMBER 2022
cardinal BLock
DUE AT JANUARY MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
This is an extremely easy block to do. You have three block sizes to cut, 2 ½ inch squares, 3 inch squares and 3 ¼ inch squares.
You will need 12 white 2 ½ inch squares and 8 red 2 ½ inch squares.
For the half square triangles, I cut mine at 3 inches and trimmed to 2 ½ inches after I sewed the half square triangles together.
Cut 8 - 3 inch white squares and subcut diagonally once. Cut 4 – 3 inch green squares and subcut diagonally once.
I used 3 different red fabrics in my cardinal, you may use whatever number of fabrics you wish, the number of red half square triangles you need is 8, but the number of squares you need to cut depends on the number of fabrics you use in the half square triangle blocks. Because I only used 2 of the 3 red fabrics in half square triangle positions, I cut 5 squares 3 inch squares, 4 from one fabric and 1 from the other, that gave me 2 extra half square triangles, one from each color. The beak and eye units use one half square triangle and two quarter square triangles each. Cut your required number of red half square triangles.
Cut 1 - 3 ¼ inch square of white, yellow, black and whatever red you choose for around the eye! Subcut all diagonally twice! These are your quarter square triangles. You will only use one from each color.
Sew the white quarter square triangle to the yellow quarter square triangle, you do not sew them on the long edge, you sew on one of the side edges. Lay them out as in the picture and make sure you sew them into the right space. You are making a half square triangle out of them. Press open and then sew a white half square triangle to your two color half square triangle you just created. Press open again trim the square to 2 ½ inches. Repeat this process with your black and red quarter square triangles and one of the red half square triangles.
Sew 7 white half square triangles to the seven green half square triangles, press open. Sew seven white half square triangles to seven red half square triangles and press open. Trim all to 2 ½ inches.
Now layout all of your 2 ½ inch blocks including those your created with half square triangles and quarter square triangles, according to the grid below.
In row 1 sew the first two blocks together, then the next two blocks and the next two, for 3 sets of two blocks. Continue down the rows doing the same, chain piecing, until you’ve sewed all the blocks together in sets of two. Cut your sets apart and press open, then re lay them out into the grid pattern.
Now start at the top again and sew the first two sets in row 1 together, then chain piece and sew the row 2 first two sets together. Go down the rest of the rows doing the same. Cut them apart and press open. Lay them out again in the grid.
Again start at row one and add the last set of two to the end of the row. Do the same for the rest of the rows. Press open and put them back into the grid pattern making sure your block looks like the one in the grid.
Now sew row 1 to row 2 matching points. I use ultra fine pins through the seams. Press the seams open, then sew row 3 to the bottom of row 2, matching points. Press open.
Next sew row 4 to row 5, matching points and press the seams open. Then sew row 6 to row 5, matching points and press the seam open.
Lastly sew row 3 to row 4, matching points and press the seams open.
I always try to keep whatever I am sewing together as evenly matched in size as I can. It makes it easier to manage sewing large quilts together.
The block should be 12 ½ inches square and 12 inches finished!
Here’s a copy of the graph flipped over in case you want to make a medallion out of four of these blocks facing each other! Have fun! You can make other birds as well by changing their colors and adding other elements. You have license to Make this your own way!
You will need 12 white 2 ½ inch squares and 8 red 2 ½ inch squares.
For the half square triangles, I cut mine at 3 inches and trimmed to 2 ½ inches after I sewed the half square triangles together.
Cut 8 - 3 inch white squares and subcut diagonally once. Cut 4 – 3 inch green squares and subcut diagonally once.
I used 3 different red fabrics in my cardinal, you may use whatever number of fabrics you wish, the number of red half square triangles you need is 8, but the number of squares you need to cut depends on the number of fabrics you use in the half square triangle blocks. Because I only used 2 of the 3 red fabrics in half square triangle positions, I cut 5 squares 3 inch squares, 4 from one fabric and 1 from the other, that gave me 2 extra half square triangles, one from each color. The beak and eye units use one half square triangle and two quarter square triangles each. Cut your required number of red half square triangles.
Cut 1 - 3 ¼ inch square of white, yellow, black and whatever red you choose for around the eye! Subcut all diagonally twice! These are your quarter square triangles. You will only use one from each color.
Sew the white quarter square triangle to the yellow quarter square triangle, you do not sew them on the long edge, you sew on one of the side edges. Lay them out as in the picture and make sure you sew them into the right space. You are making a half square triangle out of them. Press open and then sew a white half square triangle to your two color half square triangle you just created. Press open again trim the square to 2 ½ inches. Repeat this process with your black and red quarter square triangles and one of the red half square triangles.
Sew 7 white half square triangles to the seven green half square triangles, press open. Sew seven white half square triangles to seven red half square triangles and press open. Trim all to 2 ½ inches.
Now layout all of your 2 ½ inch blocks including those your created with half square triangles and quarter square triangles, according to the grid below.
In row 1 sew the first two blocks together, then the next two blocks and the next two, for 3 sets of two blocks. Continue down the rows doing the same, chain piecing, until you’ve sewed all the blocks together in sets of two. Cut your sets apart and press open, then re lay them out into the grid pattern.
Now start at the top again and sew the first two sets in row 1 together, then chain piece and sew the row 2 first two sets together. Go down the rest of the rows doing the same. Cut them apart and press open. Lay them out again in the grid.
Again start at row one and add the last set of two to the end of the row. Do the same for the rest of the rows. Press open and put them back into the grid pattern making sure your block looks like the one in the grid.
Now sew row 1 to row 2 matching points. I use ultra fine pins through the seams. Press the seams open, then sew row 3 to the bottom of row 2, matching points. Press open.
Next sew row 4 to row 5, matching points and press the seams open. Then sew row 6 to row 5, matching points and press the seam open.
Lastly sew row 3 to row 4, matching points and press the seams open.
I always try to keep whatever I am sewing together as evenly matched in size as I can. It makes it easier to manage sewing large quilts together.
The block should be 12 ½ inches square and 12 inches finished!
Here’s a copy of the graph flipped over in case you want to make a medallion out of four of these blocks facing each other! Have fun! You can make other birds as well by changing their colors and adding other elements. You have license to Make this your own way!
november 2022
CHRISTMAS TREE BLock
DUE AT DECEMBER MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
LLQG BOM DEC22 – CHRISTMAS TREE
This is classed as an Intermediate block but with all the triangles I’ve had you doing, I know you can do this! The original Victorian block is on the right, the one on the left is my modern adaption. This block is on point, but when making it you will flop it over onto it’s right side. You will make all your half square triangle blocks first though, so let’s start there. I worked with ¼ yards. Let’s work on the Victorian version first and then you can adapt it to whatever you want afterwards.
All sewing is ¼”. READ this whole explanation before you begin.
Cut 1- 2 ½” strip from both your red and white fabrics folded right sides together, width of fabric. Starting on the non-folded edge, subcut into 15- 2 ½” squares. This gives you 2 extra half square triangle blocks in case needed. Now match a red to a white square, white side up, and using a Fons & Porter add a seam 1/5” ruler, if you have one, position the line diagonally on the white square and mark a line down both sides of the ruler, then you will sew on the two lines and cut between them on the diagonal. If you do not have this ruler, then mark the diagonal with a pencil and sew down a ¼” from both sides of the line. Press the seams open and trim to 2” squares by lining the diagonal line on your ruler down the seam. Looking at you red fabric separate into the left and top facing triangle and the bottom and right facing triangles based on the design of the fabric. 15 squares for each Stack.
Next take the remaining red strip and unfold and cut 1 - 2 ½” square and subcut diagonally. Now take the remaining red 2 ½” strip and trim to 2 inches wide and subcut 4- 2” squares. Now if you still have enough fabric left on the strip, trim it to 1 ¾” wide and subcut to 1- 4 ¾” rectangle, else cut from your other remaining red fabric. The last red fabric cut you need to make is 1- 3 7/8” square, subcut diagonally once.
Now let’s cut the remaining white fabric. Take the remaining white fabric strip trim to 2” wide and leave folded. We need 2- 2” squares, 2 – 3 ½” rectangles and 2 – 8 inch rectangles, so depending on how much is left on this folded remaining strip, 14 inches of folded fabric will give you all 3 of these sizes by making one cut for each. If you do not have this much cut the rest from your other remaining white fabric. You will also need 1- 3 7/8” square subcut diagonally once, and 1 – 8 X 5” block, fold this in half wrong sides together, for “4 x 5” and subcut out your template pieces. (By folding wrong sides together we will get both sides in 1 cut!)
Now we start sewing pieces together!
Take 4 – 2” half square triangle squares , all with red to the left and top of the square, and sew them together into a strip, left to right! Do this three times. Set aside.
Next take 4 – 2” half square triangle squares , all with red to the right and bottom of the square, and sew them together into a strip, left to right! Do this two times. Set aside.
We start on the bottom left half of this block by working on the trunk of the tree. Take the 2 white blocks cut with the template separated and right sides up, with the shortest square edge facing in to each other and place one of the two triangles cut from the single diagonally cut red 2 ½” square, long edge of triangle is on the right side facing down, to that short straight edge of the block that is marked and sew them together. If you have positional fabric check your fabric before you sew it down. Then press open and trim points hanging off the block. Do this for both sides.
Next take the red 1 ¾” X 4 ¾” strip and sew to the two sides we just attached the red triangles on. Red triangles should be on the bottom of the block! Press to the red strip in the center on both sides.
Now take one of the 3 7/8” red triangles and sew it to the top of the block just made above. Press open. Then take one of the 3 7/8” white triangles and sew it to the bottom of the same block, press open.
Next take one of the 4 piece half square triangle strips with the red triangles facing left and top, and sew it to the top side of block with the trunk top(single red triangle, facing up on right), to check compare to bottom left third of marked block below.
Now we work on putting together the right side of bottom of the picture.
Take one of the 2” red squares and attach it to the top of one of the 4 piece half square triangle strips with the red triangles facing the bottom and right side of the block. Then take the other 4 piece half square triangle strip facing in the same direction and attach a white 2” square to the bottom of the strip. Sew these two strips together, press the seam open.
Next take 3 more of the red facing bottom and right, half square triangles and sew them into a strip going down, press seams open. Then attach one of the white 2” X 3 ½” rectangles to the bottom, press the seam open. Now attach one of the 2” X 8” white rectangles to the right of the previous strip. Take this strip set and attach it to the first strip set so that the red 2” square is on the top left, and the white 2” X 8” rectangle is on the left outside edge. Press seams open. Compare to right bottom right of picture. Sew the two blocks together, trunk block on left and press open. NOW for the top!
Take the last 2 red, left and top facing, half square triangles and sew them together left to right, press open. Next sew a 2” red square to the right side of the 2 half square triangles. Next sew the remaining 2” x 8” white strip the left side of the strip you just made. This is the top row of the tree.
Next you will take 1 – 2” red square and sew it to the left of 1 - right and bottom facing red half square triangle. Press open, then sew 1 of the remaining 4 piece half square triangle blocks to the left of the block you just sewed together. Now sew a 2” white square to the left of that. Press all seams open.
This is part of the second row down
Take the last 2 red half square triangles, with the red triangle facing to the right and bottom, and sew them together left to right. Next sew the last 2" red square to the left of the two triangle strip you just completed. Press open. Now sew the last remaining 4 piece half square triangle strip set to the left of the strip you just pressed open, and press the new seam open. This is spart of the third row of the top section. Next sew the second row section to the top of the third row strip, press open, then sew the last 2" X 3½" red strip to the left of these two row, press open. Now sew the first row to the top of the second/third row strip set, matching points. Press open. Then sew the top section to the bottom section.
Press open. Phew, we're done!
LLQG BOM DEC22 – CHRISTMAS TREE
This is classed as an Intermediate block but with all the triangles I’ve had you doing, I know you can do this! The original Victorian block is on the right, the one on the left is my modern adaption. This block is on point, but when making it you will flop it over onto it’s right side. You will make all your half square triangle blocks first though, so let’s start there. I worked with ¼ yards. Let’s work on the Victorian version first and then you can adapt it to whatever you want afterwards.
All sewing is ¼”. READ this whole explanation before you begin.
Cut 1- 2 ½” strip from both your red and white fabrics folded right sides together, width of fabric. Starting on the non-folded edge, subcut into 15- 2 ½” squares. This gives you 2 extra half square triangle blocks in case needed. Now match a red to a white square, white side up, and using a Fons & Porter add a seam 1/5” ruler, if you have one, position the line diagonally on the white square and mark a line down both sides of the ruler, then you will sew on the two lines and cut between them on the diagonal. If you do not have this ruler, then mark the diagonal with a pencil and sew down a ¼” from both sides of the line. Press the seams open and trim to 2” squares by lining the diagonal line on your ruler down the seam. Looking at you red fabric separate into the left and top facing triangle and the bottom and right facing triangles based on the design of the fabric. 15 squares for each Stack.
Next take the remaining red strip and unfold and cut 1 - 2 ½” square and subcut diagonally. Now take the remaining red 2 ½” strip and trim to 2 inches wide and subcut 4- 2” squares. Now if you still have enough fabric left on the strip, trim it to 1 ¾” wide and subcut to 1- 4 ¾” rectangle, else cut from your other remaining red fabric. The last red fabric cut you need to make is 1- 3 7/8” square, subcut diagonally once.
Now let’s cut the remaining white fabric. Take the remaining white fabric strip trim to 2” wide and leave folded. We need 2- 2” squares, 2 – 3 ½” rectangles and 2 – 8 inch rectangles, so depending on how much is left on this folded remaining strip, 14 inches of folded fabric will give you all 3 of these sizes by making one cut for each. If you do not have this much cut the rest from your other remaining white fabric. You will also need 1- 3 7/8” square subcut diagonally once, and 1 – 8 X 5” block, fold this in half wrong sides together, for “4 x 5” and subcut out your template pieces. (By folding wrong sides together we will get both sides in 1 cut!)
Now we start sewing pieces together!
Take 4 – 2” half square triangle squares , all with red to the left and top of the square, and sew them together into a strip, left to right! Do this three times. Set aside.
Next take 4 – 2” half square triangle squares , all with red to the right and bottom of the square, and sew them together into a strip, left to right! Do this two times. Set aside.
We start on the bottom left half of this block by working on the trunk of the tree. Take the 2 white blocks cut with the template separated and right sides up, with the shortest square edge facing in to each other and place one of the two triangles cut from the single diagonally cut red 2 ½” square, long edge of triangle is on the right side facing down, to that short straight edge of the block that is marked and sew them together. If you have positional fabric check your fabric before you sew it down. Then press open and trim points hanging off the block. Do this for both sides.
Next take the red 1 ¾” X 4 ¾” strip and sew to the two sides we just attached the red triangles on. Red triangles should be on the bottom of the block! Press to the red strip in the center on both sides.
Now take one of the 3 7/8” red triangles and sew it to the top of the block just made above. Press open. Then take one of the 3 7/8” white triangles and sew it to the bottom of the same block, press open.
Next take one of the 4 piece half square triangle strips with the red triangles facing left and top, and sew it to the top side of block with the trunk top(single red triangle, facing up on right), to check compare to bottom left third of marked block below.
Now we work on putting together the right side of bottom of the picture.
Take one of the 2” red squares and attach it to the top of one of the 4 piece half square triangle strips with the red triangles facing the bottom and right side of the block. Then take the other 4 piece half square triangle strip facing in the same direction and attach a white 2” square to the bottom of the strip. Sew these two strips together, press the seam open.
Next take 3 more of the red facing bottom and right, half square triangles and sew them into a strip going down, press seams open. Then attach one of the white 2” X 3 ½” rectangles to the bottom, press the seam open. Now attach one of the 2” X 8” white rectangles to the right of the previous strip. Take this strip set and attach it to the first strip set so that the red 2” square is on the top left, and the white 2” X 8” rectangle is on the left outside edge. Press seams open. Compare to right bottom right of picture. Sew the two blocks together, trunk block on left and press open. NOW for the top!
Take the last 2 red, left and top facing, half square triangles and sew them together left to right, press open. Next sew a 2” red square to the right side of the 2 half square triangles. Next sew the remaining 2” x 8” white strip the left side of the strip you just made. This is the top row of the tree.
Next you will take 1 – 2” red square and sew it to the left of 1 - right and bottom facing red half square triangle. Press open, then sew 1 of the remaining 4 piece half square triangle blocks to the left of the block you just sewed together. Now sew a 2” white square to the left of that. Press all seams open.
This is part of the second row down
Take the last 2 red half square triangles, with the red triangle facing to the right and bottom, and sew them together left to right. Next sew the last 2" red square to the left of the two triangle strip you just completed. Press open. Now sew the last remaining 4 piece half square triangle strip set to the left of the strip you just pressed open, and press the new seam open. This is spart of the third row of the top section. Next sew the second row section to the top of the third row strip, press open, then sew the last 2" X 3½" red strip to the left of these two row, press open. Now sew the first row to the top of the second/third row strip set, matching points. Press open. Then sew the top section to the bottom section.
Press open. Phew, we're done!
september 2022
snails trail BLock
DUE AT NOVEMBER MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
August 2022
Lady of the Lake BLock
DUE AT SEAPTEMBER MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
August BOM 2022
Lady of the Lake
10 ½” unfinished
10” finished
This is a very easy block to make!
There are only two sizes of sub blocks to make for this BOM. The sub blocks will end up at 2 ½ inches and
6 ½ inches. I’ve mostly seen solids used, but there are no fabric police, so use what you want! I combined one of the colors of the year, cosmos, in a solid, with batiks that had colors that would blend with that solid. Note that ALL of the smaller half square triangle blocks face the same direction going all around the large center half square triangle block also facing that same way!
Note, I tend to press any triangle block seams open for ease in matching seams. I usually pin right in the seam itself or if the pin creates to much bulk there, then I will pin in the seam again, then place a pin in the front fold of the fabric of the seam and remove the seam pin.
Cut one 7” square of both the white fabric and your center colored fabric. Cut both in half diagonally. Sew one white triangle to one colored triangle. Trim to 6 ½ inches. Note that you have enough to make two center half square triangle blocks!
If you are going to use a directional fabric then I would suggest you cut those individually into 3” squares and then cut across diagonally once from corner to corner paying attention to what part of the block you wanted on the colored portion of the block.
If Not using a directional fabric and Not using the creative grids multi-sized flying geese ruler, then I would cut enough 3 inch strips of the white fabric, and 3 inch strips of the colored fabric(s) you choose to be able to sub cut into 8 - 3 inch squares. Iron the strips together right sides facing. Next cut those squares once diagonally, giving you 16 half square triangles in each color.
Now sew a white 3 inch triangle to a colored 3 inch triangle, until you’ve made 16 half square triangle blocks.
Check and trim using a 2 ½ inch or larger square ruler positioning it so the 45 degree diagonal line lined up on the diagonal seam of the block is within the 2 ½ inch markings as well as the other corners of the block. Cut trimming the block to 2 ½ inches square.
If using the Creative Grids Ruler, then cut enough 2 ½ Inch strips of both your white and Colored fabrics to subcut 16 triangles. Iron the strips facing right sides together and subcut the 16 - 2 ½” half square triangles, remember the seam is built in, so you can pick up both pieces at one time and stack them slightly offset and then sew them together. Check and trim to 2 ½ inches and then stack them with the color facing the direction shown in the picture above!
Layout your block with 5 smaller half square triangle blocks left to right, all facing in the same direction as shown in the picture above, to make the top row. Then your big block centered under that row, with 3 single small half square triangle blocks going down in front and 3 smaller half square triangle blocks going down behind it as well. Lastly position the last 5 half square triangle blocks in a row left to right beneath what you’ve already done. Double check that all triangles in the layout are facing in the right direction.
Sew the 3 center left front small half square triangles together into a column, sewing top triangle to middle triangle and then middle triangle to the bottom triangle. Press and put back into the layout, making sure all triangles are facing in the right direction. Sew to the left side of the center big block. Next do the same with the back 3 center small half square triangle blocks and sew them to the right side of the large center big block again check that they are facing in the right direction.
Lastly sew the top 5 small half square triangle blocks together left to right. Sew them to the top of the center Block matching seams. Then do the same for the bottom 5 smaller blocks and sew them to the bottom of your final block, again matching seams where needed and making sure at each step that all sub blocks are facing in the right direction.
Lady of the Lake
10 ½” unfinished
10” finished
This is a very easy block to make!
There are only two sizes of sub blocks to make for this BOM. The sub blocks will end up at 2 ½ inches and
6 ½ inches. I’ve mostly seen solids used, but there are no fabric police, so use what you want! I combined one of the colors of the year, cosmos, in a solid, with batiks that had colors that would blend with that solid. Note that ALL of the smaller half square triangle blocks face the same direction going all around the large center half square triangle block also facing that same way!
Note, I tend to press any triangle block seams open for ease in matching seams. I usually pin right in the seam itself or if the pin creates to much bulk there, then I will pin in the seam again, then place a pin in the front fold of the fabric of the seam and remove the seam pin.
Cut one 7” square of both the white fabric and your center colored fabric. Cut both in half diagonally. Sew one white triangle to one colored triangle. Trim to 6 ½ inches. Note that you have enough to make two center half square triangle blocks!
If you are going to use a directional fabric then I would suggest you cut those individually into 3” squares and then cut across diagonally once from corner to corner paying attention to what part of the block you wanted on the colored portion of the block.
If Not using a directional fabric and Not using the creative grids multi-sized flying geese ruler, then I would cut enough 3 inch strips of the white fabric, and 3 inch strips of the colored fabric(s) you choose to be able to sub cut into 8 - 3 inch squares. Iron the strips together right sides facing. Next cut those squares once diagonally, giving you 16 half square triangles in each color.
Now sew a white 3 inch triangle to a colored 3 inch triangle, until you’ve made 16 half square triangle blocks.
Check and trim using a 2 ½ inch or larger square ruler positioning it so the 45 degree diagonal line lined up on the diagonal seam of the block is within the 2 ½ inch markings as well as the other corners of the block. Cut trimming the block to 2 ½ inches square.
If using the Creative Grids Ruler, then cut enough 2 ½ Inch strips of both your white and Colored fabrics to subcut 16 triangles. Iron the strips facing right sides together and subcut the 16 - 2 ½” half square triangles, remember the seam is built in, so you can pick up both pieces at one time and stack them slightly offset and then sew them together. Check and trim to 2 ½ inches and then stack them with the color facing the direction shown in the picture above!
Layout your block with 5 smaller half square triangle blocks left to right, all facing in the same direction as shown in the picture above, to make the top row. Then your big block centered under that row, with 3 single small half square triangle blocks going down in front and 3 smaller half square triangle blocks going down behind it as well. Lastly position the last 5 half square triangle blocks in a row left to right beneath what you’ve already done. Double check that all triangles in the layout are facing in the right direction.
Sew the 3 center left front small half square triangles together into a column, sewing top triangle to middle triangle and then middle triangle to the bottom triangle. Press and put back into the layout, making sure all triangles are facing in the right direction. Sew to the left side of the center big block. Next do the same with the back 3 center small half square triangle blocks and sew them to the right side of the large center big block again check that they are facing in the right direction.
Lastly sew the top 5 small half square triangle blocks together left to right. Sew them to the top of the center Block matching seams. Then do the same for the bottom 5 smaller blocks and sew them to the bottom of your final block, again matching seams where needed and making sure at each step that all sub blocks are facing in the right direction.
july 2022
TALL SHIP block
DUE AT AUGUST MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
june 2022
state house block
DUE AT July MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
may 2022
Devil's claw block
DUE AT June MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
April 2022
Bird of paradise
DUE AT may MEETING
Click to open PDF instructions and template
March 2022
Double Irish chain
DUE AT APRIL MEETING
Click to open PDF instructions
February 2022
"Heart"
DUE AT MarCH MEETING
Click to open PDF Instructions & actual applique template
January 2022
"Album Patch"
Click to open PDF instructions
december 2020
"disapearing Block"
Click to open PDF instructions
november 2020
"maple leaf"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
october 2020
"Sawtooth star" or "square on points"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
september 2020
"square in square"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
august 2020
"rail fence"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
june/july 2020
"july fourth - fifty-four forty or fight"
note: please use red, white/cream and blue fabric
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
March 2020
"ground cover"
note: please use fabric with high contrast
February 2020
"four leaf clover"
note: block to be done in green and white
(applique' is optional)
Pattern by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
june 2019
"buzzsaw"
note: block to be done in red, white & blue
May 2019
"Flight of Swallows"
Note: Block to be done in blue & white
Pattern by Marica Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
April 2019
"Log Cabin Stars"
March 2019
"Churn Dash"
February 2019
"Starburst"
January 2019
"Spool"
December 2018
"Shooting Star"
November 2018
"Road to California"
October 2018
Flame
August & September 2018
Pinwheel
July 2018
4th of July
June 2018
Hot Air Balloon
Instructions: Click here
Pattern: Click here
May 2018
Butterfly
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April 2018
Go Fly a Kite
March 2018
Out Like a Lamb
Permission to use by Original Designer Nancy Hicks
February 2018
Playful Hearts
Original design from sewmamyblocks.com
December 2017
Starflakes
October/November 2017
Pumpkin Patch
September 2017
Back to School
August 2017
Sunburn
July 2017
Uncle Sam's Bowtie
June 2017
Log Cabin Watermelon
May 2017
Wild Spring Poppies
March 2017
Friendship Block
Guidelines
Using fabrics from your own stash create a quilt block based on the guild pattern and instructions provided. There is no limit regarding the number of blocks entered however, fabrics should vary to maintain a scrappy feel.
Additional information you should know:
- For each block completed, write your full name on a small piece of paper, and attach to the completed block with a pin.
- Bring your completed blocks to the general meeting. Blocks will be displayed for members to see. For each block completed, enter your name in the drawing.
- If you are unable to attend the meeting, but want to participate in Block of the Month, please arrange to have completed blocks at the general meeting either by contacting the chairman in advance or asking a quilting friend to help.
- At a specified time at the general meeting, based on participation, one or more names will be drawn to win quilt blocks. Example: If we receive 30 blocks, we will have two winners. The first winner will pick 15 blocks; the second winner will receive the remaining. There will be no limit to the number of times you can win.
- In fairness to all, if blocks are incorrect in size, have an obvious error, or are incomplete, will be returned to the maker and will not be eligible for the drawing.
Additional information you should know:
- Please use 100% cotton fabric. Wash and preshrink fabric and test for colorfastness before constructing your block.
- Measure fabric and cut accurate to insure proper block construction. It is very important to accurately construct your block using 1/4 inch seam allowances.
- Press seams. Use an up and down motion as not to distort fabric.
- There should be no need to "square up" if pieces are cut correctly, have been sewn with proper seam allowances, and pressed properly without distortion. (Your very best work is expected.)
- Finished size of the block is the actual size of the block when sewn into a quilt top. Unfinished size is the block with seam allowances. So, if you are making a 6" block finished in a quilt, the unfinished size should measure 6-1/2" because of the 1/4" seam allowance. I hope this makes sense!