Block of the Month Directions
Click on block to view instructions or go to the website provided. Please familiarize yourself with the guidelines below before making your block. Questions? Contact Block of the Month Chairman Betty Fessler, Bjfessler@aim.com.
june 2022
state house block
DUE AT July MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
LLQG BOM - June22
State House
12 ½” unfinished
Cut 4 – 4” white squares
Cut 2 – 4” Red squares
Cut 2 – 4” Blue squares
Cut 8 – 2” red squares
Cut 8 - 2” blue squares
Cut 16 – 2“ white squares
OR
Cut enough 2” strips of each
Color to subcut into 8 – 2” X 3 ½” pieces after sewn together as strip sets white to color. If using directionally printed fabric you only need enough to subcut into 4 of each set of strips, because you will have two strip sets for each color.
I roller press my seams open because for me its easier to match points, especially on triangle blocks. After I have my finished 3 ½” sub-blocks I will steam press and trim.
State House
12 ½” unfinished
Cut 4 – 4” white squares
Cut 2 – 4” Red squares
Cut 2 – 4” Blue squares
Cut 8 – 2” red squares
Cut 8 - 2” blue squares
Cut 16 – 2“ white squares
OR
Cut enough 2” strips of each
Color to subcut into 8 – 2” X 3 ½” pieces after sewn together as strip sets white to color. If using directionally printed fabric you only need enough to subcut into 4 of each set of strips, because you will have two strip sets for each color.
I roller press my seams open because for me its easier to match points, especially on triangle blocks. After I have my finished 3 ½” sub-blocks I will steam press and trim.
- Take all 4” squares and cut them diagonally once from corner to corner. Sew a colored triangle to a white triangle and trim down to 3 ½” squares.
- If you cut 2” squares; carefully sew together the 2” squares into four-patches with alternating color/white squares, working in only one color at a time. Press to color, these will nest. Trim if needed. You will have 4 – 3 ½” blocks for each color combo.
- If you cut 2” strips, sew the strips white and solid together and then subcut into 2 X 3 ½“ blocks. Press to color. With solids you can then just flip one around and sew them together again to get your colors in the opposite positions and your 3 ½” finished block. If using a printed fabric where you need to keep your print in the same direction, you would sew two strip sets one with white on top and color on the bottom and the other with color on top and white on the bottom and subcut those to 2” X 3 ½” blocks and pull one from each strip set and sew them together. Ending up with a 3 ½” finished four-patch block. It makes for easier accuracy in sewing the blocks. These you press the seams to the color for sewing before sewing together and then the seams will nest. Always trim your blocks to size.
- Now you can steam press your blocks 3 ½” finished blocks and lay them out as in the picture and sew together matching points, by row or column, your preference, until you have a completed 12 ½” block, that looks like the picture!
may 2022
Devil's claw block
DUE AT June MEETING
Click image to open PDF instructions
LLQG BOM – MAY 2022
Devils Claw Block
12 ½ “ unfinished, 12 “ finished
Let’s make a Red and White Quilt! One block can be made from 2 fat quarters. There will be two sets of instructions for this block, one is based on the “Creative Grids Non-Slip Multi Size 6” Flying Geese and 45/90 degree Triangle ruler”, you may have purchased it at last year’s quilt show in Colleen’s booth if you attended my demo on easy flying geese. It’s perfect for the 8 flying geese sub blocks, which are all round the outside of this block!
With the White Fabric;
Cut 4 - 2 5/8” squares for the “on point square in a square sub-blocks”
Then cut enough 2” strips from the fabric to subcut; 4 - 2” squares & 4 - 2 X 3 ½” rectangles
Flying Geese w/ruler instructions; Cut and fold 2” strips in half so you can subcut white center triangles, this is the large triangle in the center of the flying geese block, press them so they stick together slightly, then place them on your cutting board and line up the 90 degree triangle on top of the strip with the 2” mark at the bottom of the strip, the top of the ruler should be at the top of your strip, cut down both sides and set aside the partial pieces at the beginning, they are scraps, now move the first triangles aside and flip your ruler around aligning on the new edge of the strip, top down, and cut the second side of the next set of triangles, then flip your ruler around so it lines up and repeat, until you have 4 sets of 2 triangles for a total of 8 triangles.
Without the ruler; Cut 2 - 4 1/4” squares and subcut into 8 triangles by cutting each square twice diagonally.
With the Red Fabric;
Cut 5 – 3 ½” squares
Cut 8 – 2 3/8” squares, you may increase to 2 1/5” inch squares, to give yourself more wiggle room, subcut into half square triangles by cutting once diagonally. These are for the “square in a square” sub-blocks!
Red fabric cutting with the flying geese ruler;
If using printed fabric fold the strip wrong sides together, if using solids it doesn’t matter.
Cut enough 2” strips to fold in half and make 16 – 45 degree triangles, You will make two at a time, using the same technique as before, but with the 45 degree portion of the ruler lined up on the 2” mark on the bottom of the strip.
Without the flying geese ruler;
Cut an additional 8 – 2 3/8” red squares subcut into half square triangles again, you may increase to 2 ½ inch red squares, Cut diagonally once, giving you 16 more red triangles for use in the flying geese sub-blocks
Tally count; you should have; 4 white - 2 inch squares, 4 white - 2 X 3 ½ inch rectangles, 4 white - 2 5/8 inch squares, 8 white large center triangles for Flying geese blocks, 5 red - 3 1/5 inch squares., and, 32 red smaller triangles, at least 16 cut from the 2 3/8 inch to 2 ½ inch red squares,
Use a scant ¼ seam on all triangles. With walking foot on your sewing machine first lets make the Flying Geese. The advantage to the ruler is that you have both a built in seam allowance with a straight edge instead of an angle to start sewing on.
With the ruler: Take your large white center triangle point up and place one of the 45 degree red triangles along the angle side with the flat point also up at the top of the center triangle and match the angle, you will most likely see a peak of the red triangle at the top of the center if your white side is up, then sew together from the top down using a scant ¼, or just inside the ¼ inch line on your plate or foot, taking advantage of that straight edge to start. Once you have sewn on one side on all 8 center triangles, finger press them open, then line up on the other side with other 8 red 45 degree triangles the same way, matching the flat points with the top edge at the top of the center triangle again and sew all the second sides of the geese together. Finger press open again and trim all blocks to 2 X 3 1/2 inches, making sure you have a ¼ inch of red above the white center triangle. Without the ruler: You will use the 8 white triangles you made with the 4 1/4” blocks as your centers and 16 of the red triangles you made with the 2 3/8” square cut into half square triangles. Trim again making sure you have ¼ inch above the white top of the center triangle.
Now let’s make the “on point square in a square” sub-blocks, Remember to seam with a scant ¼”! Take your white 2 5/8” squares and fold in half both horizontally and vertically and finger press only at the edges on all 4 sides. Then get one of the half square triangles you made from the red 2 3/8” squares and fold it in half along the longest edge and finger press at the edge.. Match that edge mark on the red triangle with one of the center edge marks on one of the white 2 5/8” squares, align and sew together. Repeat on all the other white 2 5/8 inch squares. Match another red triangle to the opposite edge on the white squares by folding the red triangle in half and finger pressing at the edge and matching it to the center line on the white squares. Sew then Finger press both red triangles up. Repeat for the other two sides. On these I start trim by cutting one side down to the ¼” seam allowance above the white point while the rest of the 3 ½ “ marks on your ruler are still on the block., repeat same, for each side. Block should be a 3 1/5” square. Now Tally count again; 4 – 2” white squares, 4 white – 2 X 3 1/2 inch rectangles. 8 “ Flying Geese” sub-blocks, 5 red – 3 ½ inch blocks, and 4 - “on point Square in a Square sub-blocks”.
Now we can assemble these blocks into columns. Let’s start with columns 1 & 5. So I started with the 2” white square placed on top of a 2 X 3 ½” flying geese block . making sure the white points were facing in, and sewed them together. Repeat once. After that I sewed the next 2 white 2” squares to the bottom of two more of the flying geese blocks, white points in. Now sew the 2 X 3
1/5 inch white rectangles between the two flying geese so that the strips end up with a white 2” block on the top and bottom of the column with both flying geese facing the same direction and with a white 2 X 3 ½ inch rectangle in the center. You’ve just made the left and right sides of the final block! One is the first column and the other flipped around is the fifth column.
Now on to columns 2 & 4. Next you take another Flying Geese block, white points down this time and attached it to one of the 3 ½” red squares, do this four times attaching one flying geese to each of 4 of the 3 ½” red squares. Take two of these new sub-blocks and attach one of the “square in a square “ blocks between the two on the sides opposite the Flying Geese blocks. You should now have the second column sewn with the order of Flying Geese white point down, a 3 1/2” red square, a “Square in a Square” sub-block, another 3 ½” red square, and ending with a Flying Geese white point up! Now do the same with the other two Flying Geese sub-blocks, a 3 ½” red square and another “Square in a Square sub-block, completing column 2 and 4.
Lastly for column 3, the middle column I attached a white 2 X 3” rectangle to the top of a “Square in a Square” sub-block for both the remaining two white rectangles. Then attach the last 3 ½” red square between the two “Square in a Square” blocks. So you will have a rectangle on the top and bottom of this finished column # 3. Next press the columns, pressing the all the triangles flat against whatever non-triangle block they were attached to! Trim as needed. When attaching one column to the next, this is where I pinned at each seam and at the center where the Flying Geese or Square in a Square point hits the center of the 3 ½” red block. However, when pressing the columns after sewing together, I pressed open to decrease the bulk. Line your columns up having pressed them, all Flying Geese white points should face into the 3 ½” red squares. I attached the two outer columns together first on both sides. Then attach the center column between them both. This single final block should be 12 1/5 inches square unfinished! Finished would mean no seam allowances showing on the block, when sewn into a quilt, it can become finished!
Devils Claw Block
12 ½ “ unfinished, 12 “ finished
Let’s make a Red and White Quilt! One block can be made from 2 fat quarters. There will be two sets of instructions for this block, one is based on the “Creative Grids Non-Slip Multi Size 6” Flying Geese and 45/90 degree Triangle ruler”, you may have purchased it at last year’s quilt show in Colleen’s booth if you attended my demo on easy flying geese. It’s perfect for the 8 flying geese sub blocks, which are all round the outside of this block!
With the White Fabric;
Cut 4 - 2 5/8” squares for the “on point square in a square sub-blocks”
Then cut enough 2” strips from the fabric to subcut; 4 - 2” squares & 4 - 2 X 3 ½” rectangles
Flying Geese w/ruler instructions; Cut and fold 2” strips in half so you can subcut white center triangles, this is the large triangle in the center of the flying geese block, press them so they stick together slightly, then place them on your cutting board and line up the 90 degree triangle on top of the strip with the 2” mark at the bottom of the strip, the top of the ruler should be at the top of your strip, cut down both sides and set aside the partial pieces at the beginning, they are scraps, now move the first triangles aside and flip your ruler around aligning on the new edge of the strip, top down, and cut the second side of the next set of triangles, then flip your ruler around so it lines up and repeat, until you have 4 sets of 2 triangles for a total of 8 triangles.
Without the ruler; Cut 2 - 4 1/4” squares and subcut into 8 triangles by cutting each square twice diagonally.
With the Red Fabric;
Cut 5 – 3 ½” squares
Cut 8 – 2 3/8” squares, you may increase to 2 1/5” inch squares, to give yourself more wiggle room, subcut into half square triangles by cutting once diagonally. These are for the “square in a square” sub-blocks!
Red fabric cutting with the flying geese ruler;
If using printed fabric fold the strip wrong sides together, if using solids it doesn’t matter.
Cut enough 2” strips to fold in half and make 16 – 45 degree triangles, You will make two at a time, using the same technique as before, but with the 45 degree portion of the ruler lined up on the 2” mark on the bottom of the strip.
Without the flying geese ruler;
Cut an additional 8 – 2 3/8” red squares subcut into half square triangles again, you may increase to 2 ½ inch red squares, Cut diagonally once, giving you 16 more red triangles for use in the flying geese sub-blocks
Tally count; you should have; 4 white - 2 inch squares, 4 white - 2 X 3 ½ inch rectangles, 4 white - 2 5/8 inch squares, 8 white large center triangles for Flying geese blocks, 5 red - 3 1/5 inch squares., and, 32 red smaller triangles, at least 16 cut from the 2 3/8 inch to 2 ½ inch red squares,
Use a scant ¼ seam on all triangles. With walking foot on your sewing machine first lets make the Flying Geese. The advantage to the ruler is that you have both a built in seam allowance with a straight edge instead of an angle to start sewing on.
With the ruler: Take your large white center triangle point up and place one of the 45 degree red triangles along the angle side with the flat point also up at the top of the center triangle and match the angle, you will most likely see a peak of the red triangle at the top of the center if your white side is up, then sew together from the top down using a scant ¼, or just inside the ¼ inch line on your plate or foot, taking advantage of that straight edge to start. Once you have sewn on one side on all 8 center triangles, finger press them open, then line up on the other side with other 8 red 45 degree triangles the same way, matching the flat points with the top edge at the top of the center triangle again and sew all the second sides of the geese together. Finger press open again and trim all blocks to 2 X 3 1/2 inches, making sure you have a ¼ inch of red above the white center triangle. Without the ruler: You will use the 8 white triangles you made with the 4 1/4” blocks as your centers and 16 of the red triangles you made with the 2 3/8” square cut into half square triangles. Trim again making sure you have ¼ inch above the white top of the center triangle.
Now let’s make the “on point square in a square” sub-blocks, Remember to seam with a scant ¼”! Take your white 2 5/8” squares and fold in half both horizontally and vertically and finger press only at the edges on all 4 sides. Then get one of the half square triangles you made from the red 2 3/8” squares and fold it in half along the longest edge and finger press at the edge.. Match that edge mark on the red triangle with one of the center edge marks on one of the white 2 5/8” squares, align and sew together. Repeat on all the other white 2 5/8 inch squares. Match another red triangle to the opposite edge on the white squares by folding the red triangle in half and finger pressing at the edge and matching it to the center line on the white squares. Sew then Finger press both red triangles up. Repeat for the other two sides. On these I start trim by cutting one side down to the ¼” seam allowance above the white point while the rest of the 3 ½ “ marks on your ruler are still on the block., repeat same, for each side. Block should be a 3 1/5” square. Now Tally count again; 4 – 2” white squares, 4 white – 2 X 3 1/2 inch rectangles. 8 “ Flying Geese” sub-blocks, 5 red – 3 ½ inch blocks, and 4 - “on point Square in a Square sub-blocks”.
Now we can assemble these blocks into columns. Let’s start with columns 1 & 5. So I started with the 2” white square placed on top of a 2 X 3 ½” flying geese block . making sure the white points were facing in, and sewed them together. Repeat once. After that I sewed the next 2 white 2” squares to the bottom of two more of the flying geese blocks, white points in. Now sew the 2 X 3
1/5 inch white rectangles between the two flying geese so that the strips end up with a white 2” block on the top and bottom of the column with both flying geese facing the same direction and with a white 2 X 3 ½ inch rectangle in the center. You’ve just made the left and right sides of the final block! One is the first column and the other flipped around is the fifth column.
Now on to columns 2 & 4. Next you take another Flying Geese block, white points down this time and attached it to one of the 3 ½” red squares, do this four times attaching one flying geese to each of 4 of the 3 ½” red squares. Take two of these new sub-blocks and attach one of the “square in a square “ blocks between the two on the sides opposite the Flying Geese blocks. You should now have the second column sewn with the order of Flying Geese white point down, a 3 1/2” red square, a “Square in a Square” sub-block, another 3 ½” red square, and ending with a Flying Geese white point up! Now do the same with the other two Flying Geese sub-blocks, a 3 ½” red square and another “Square in a Square sub-block, completing column 2 and 4.
Lastly for column 3, the middle column I attached a white 2 X 3” rectangle to the top of a “Square in a Square” sub-block for both the remaining two white rectangles. Then attach the last 3 ½” red square between the two “Square in a Square” blocks. So you will have a rectangle on the top and bottom of this finished column # 3. Next press the columns, pressing the all the triangles flat against whatever non-triangle block they were attached to! Trim as needed. When attaching one column to the next, this is where I pinned at each seam and at the center where the Flying Geese or Square in a Square point hits the center of the 3 ½” red block. However, when pressing the columns after sewing together, I pressed open to decrease the bulk. Line your columns up having pressed them, all Flying Geese white points should face into the 3 ½” red squares. I attached the two outer columns together first on both sides. Then attach the center column between them both. This single final block should be 12 1/5 inches square unfinished! Finished would mean no seam allowances showing on the block, when sewn into a quilt, it can become finished!
April 2022
Bird of paradise
DUE AT may MEETING
Click to open PDF instructions and template
LLQG April BOM 2022
Block Name: Bird of Paradise
12½" unfinished, 12" finished
All squares are 2½ inches. There are 8 white squares and 6 each of two other colors. You will need 2 rectangle strips of each fabric, folded wrong sides together, and cut to 3 x 4½ inches. Then you can place the template on the long side of the rectangle and cut your triangles. You get two triangles, one for each direction from the first cut, then rotate your template around, reline up on the other long edge and cut another set. That gives you four triangles in total in the two non-white fabrics and 8 white triangles. See template below. I trace mine onto 4mm stencil plastic stencils at the April meeting! Remember by folding the fabric wrong sides together you can cut both directions of the triangles that you will need at once!
Block Name: Bird of Paradise
12½" unfinished, 12" finished
All squares are 2½ inches. There are 8 white squares and 6 each of two other colors. You will need 2 rectangle strips of each fabric, folded wrong sides together, and cut to 3 x 4½ inches. Then you can place the template on the long side of the rectangle and cut your triangles. You get two triangles, one for each direction from the first cut, then rotate your template around, reline up on the other long edge and cut another set. That gives you four triangles in total in the two non-white fabrics and 8 white triangles. See template below. I trace mine onto 4mm stencil plastic stencils at the April meeting! Remember by folding the fabric wrong sides together you can cut both directions of the triangles that you will need at once!
On the triangles I seam with a scant ¼ inch. Check you block measurements and adjust if you needed before the next part! I suggest that you put all your four patches together first, note that there is a four-patch in the center of the block made with the two non-white colors. These should all measure at 4½ inches square! Next make your rectangles again by attaching the color triangles to their white triangles, note that the small end of the white triangles goes to the longer end of the colored triangle, these should end up being 2½ x 4½ inches! Make sure the straight edge of the triangles is next to its colored square as in the picture! then following the picture for the first row take the same color triangle rectangle block as the color four patch and attack it to the four-patch, only two of the triangles will be able to attach correctly to any of the four patches, remember you have both left and right facing triangles! Next sew the other colored four patch and colored triangle for the other side of the first row. For the second row you will be sewing two for the triangle rectangle blocks together by sewing the white fabric together and then attaching them to the center four patch making sure color goes to the color matching itself. Recheck your row sizes they should be 12½ x 4½ inches trim if needed. Now you can sew row 1 to row 2. Then make row 3 noting that you will start with the opposite color as you did with row one but making it the same way as you did row 1, noting that triangle blocks are in the opposite direction. Size the row and when done sew it to the bottom of row 2. I pressed my seams open throughout the entire block, it makes it easier to match points.
March 2022
Double Irish chain
DUE AT APRIL MEETING
This block is easy in that it consists of only squares and rectangles, but harder in that you can not piece it line by line. Start by cutting 4 rectangles of white at 1 ½ by 7 ½ inches, then cut 4 rectangles at 1 ½ by 5 ½ inches, and another 4 rectangles at 1 ½ by 3 ½ inches, these are for your outer part of the block. Set them aside for now. Next cut 20 - 1 ½ by 1 ½ inch squares of white. Now you need to cut 36 – 1 ½ by 1 ½ inch squares of older small print florals, use as many different ones as you can find. Lastly cut 5 – 1 ½ inch by 1 ½ inch squares from a pastel solid that works with your floral squares. Now take a look at the picture and you can see that the 7 ½ inch strips are on the outside all the way around, next in are the 5 ½ inch strips and then the next in is the 3 ½ inch strips. In the center are 25 - 1 ½ inch squares. This is what you want to complete first. The layout is as follows; W=White, F=Floral, P=Pastel; the first row is: W F W F W, row 2 is F P F P F, row 3 is W F P F W, row 4 is F P F P F, and row 5 is W F W F W. I press open because it’s easy to see when matching seams as I usually pin right in the seam, also the color squares don’t show through the white squares then either, but I use the ultra fine pins which also unfortunately bend very easily. However, most machines will easily sew over them! Now that you’ve sewn your five row strips together combine and sew the rows together to make the center 25 piece square part of the block.
Now we work on the outer portion of the block working left and right sides and then top and bottom. Start with a 3 ½ inch strip and attach a Floral square to each end, then attach that to the left side of the center square we just finished above. Repeat for the right side. For the top you will attach a white square and floral square to each end of another 3 ½ strip in the following order; W F strip F W, note that the florals are on each end of the strips and White squares are on the outside. These are attached to the top and bottom of the center square. You repeat for the same process for the next row around using the 5 ½ inch strips in the center, and lastly using the 7 ½ inch strips. Your unfinished block size is 11 ½ inches.
Now we work on the outer portion of the block working left and right sides and then top and bottom. Start with a 3 ½ inch strip and attach a Floral square to each end, then attach that to the left side of the center square we just finished above. Repeat for the right side. For the top you will attach a white square and floral square to each end of another 3 ½ strip in the following order; W F strip F W, note that the florals are on each end of the strips and White squares are on the outside. These are attached to the top and bottom of the center square. You repeat for the same process for the next row around using the 5 ½ inch strips in the center, and lastly using the 7 ½ inch strips. Your unfinished block size is 11 ½ inches.
February 2022
"Heart"
DUE AT MarCH MEETING
Click to open PDF Instructions & actual applique template
LLQG February BOM 2022
Block Name: Heart
8½" unfinished, 8" finished
Block A is cut at 3½ X 5½"
Block B is a 3½" square
Block C is a 1½" square
Block D is 1½ by 2½"
Block E is 1½ by 3½"
Block F is 1½ by 4½"
Block G is 1½ by 5½"
Block H is appliqued using the template and fused with the straight edge centered on the bottom of Block A. The block on the bottom right is another A/H applique block set. I used four prints, two solids and one neutral fabric. You could make every row with a different color scheme.
A and B blocks should be neutral. Sew the 1½ inch blocks together first, following the diagram above. Trim as needed to 5½ inches then tackle making the applique. If sewing by hand cut the template out with an additional ¼" seam allowance, otherwise cut out on on t If sewing by hand cut the template out with a ¼" seam allowance all the way for turning under if needed, otherwise just cut on the the lines and fuse centered on the bottom of A block and sew down with whatever stitch you prefer. Next attach it to the appliqued block to the top of the 5½ block created by sewing together the 1½" strips. Next you attached the 3½ inch square to the second A/H appliqued block at the top side of the applique and then attach the newly created piece to the side of the applique topped 5½ inch striped square. I used four different fabrics for the 1½ inch strips. One strip of 1½ by 18 inches per color will give you one of each size strips. I used four different fabrics for the 1½ inch strips but you don't use all the different sizes for each color. The 3½ inch blocks are out of the neutral and applique fabrics.
January 2022
"Album Patch"
LLQG January BOM 2022
Block Name: Album Patch
15 1/2 inches unfinished, 5-3 ½ blocks per side.
I used 2 fat quarters (18 X 22 inches). SEW all seams right sides facing! I use ultra thin pins because you can sew over them. For matching points I pin in the seam. I press open because it's easier to see where I'm matching the seam points.
1) I used white and purple/red color (that I don't know the name of). You need three strips of each color cut on the longest (22") side 1½ inches wide. Sew one white to one color strip using a ¼ seam, press seam open. Then sew another white strip to the other side of the color strip producing a white/color/white strip. The strip in the center should be 1 inch wide and the other two pieces should now be 1¼, trim down if needed! Repeat only this time sew strips in order of color/white/color.
2) Cut the white/color/white strip into 8 - 1½ inch strips. Set aside the rest of this strip. Cut the color/white/color strip into 4 - 1½ inch strips, then cut the remaining of this strip into 4 - 3½ inch squares.
3) Take a white/color/white 1½" strip matching seam points. Finger press open. Next attach another white/color/white strip to the other side of the color/white/color strip and finger press open. Finished block should be 3½" square. Repeat 3 more times. You have now completed you 4 nine patch blocks!
4) Next cute 10 - 3½" squares from the remaining white fabric and 8 - 3½" square from the remaining colored fabric.
5) Now follow the picture layout and sew all 25 - 3½ blocks together matching seam points when needed.
Block Name: Album Patch
15 1/2 inches unfinished, 5-3 ½ blocks per side.
I used 2 fat quarters (18 X 22 inches). SEW all seams right sides facing! I use ultra thin pins because you can sew over them. For matching points I pin in the seam. I press open because it's easier to see where I'm matching the seam points.
1) I used white and purple/red color (that I don't know the name of). You need three strips of each color cut on the longest (22") side 1½ inches wide. Sew one white to one color strip using a ¼ seam, press seam open. Then sew another white strip to the other side of the color strip producing a white/color/white strip. The strip in the center should be 1 inch wide and the other two pieces should now be 1¼, trim down if needed! Repeat only this time sew strips in order of color/white/color.
2) Cut the white/color/white strip into 8 - 1½ inch strips. Set aside the rest of this strip. Cut the color/white/color strip into 4 - 1½ inch strips, then cut the remaining of this strip into 4 - 3½ inch squares.
3) Take a white/color/white 1½" strip matching seam points. Finger press open. Next attach another white/color/white strip to the other side of the color/white/color strip and finger press open. Finished block should be 3½" square. Repeat 3 more times. You have now completed you 4 nine patch blocks!
4) Next cute 10 - 3½" squares from the remaining white fabric and 8 - 3½" square from the remaining colored fabric.
5) Now follow the picture layout and sew all 25 - 3½ blocks together matching seam points when needed.
december 2020
"disapearing Block"
The BOM is evolving into the "Disappearing Block" program for a while. I have enjoyed my BOM experience and look forward to seeing what Jane has in store. Carol
"Disappearing Blocks" — Jane Alameda
Sew 4 squares together to make a standard four patch quilt block. For the left block pictured, fold and cut patched block into thirds both vertically and horizontally. Arrange cut sections as shown. Sew rows together to complete the block.
For the right-hand block, draw diagonal lines 2” from each corner on all sides and cut. Arrange as shown and sew.
Please click on the block to get a pop up of full printable .pdf instructions.
"Disappearing Blocks" — Jane Alameda
Sew 4 squares together to make a standard four patch quilt block. For the left block pictured, fold and cut patched block into thirds both vertically and horizontally. Arrange cut sections as shown. Sew rows together to complete the block.
For the right-hand block, draw diagonal lines 2” from each corner on all sides and cut. Arrange as shown and sew.
Please click on the block to get a pop up of full printable .pdf instructions.
november 2020
"maple leaf"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
Here is the November BOM. It is called "Maple Leaf" and is very traditional. If you Google "Maple Leaf Block" many wonderful images pop up.
I can see this block in a Fall table runner. What do you see?
It's called "Maple Leaf Block" on Quilters Cache and is listed under that name with them. Please copy the link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the block. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/M/MapleLeafBlock.html
I can see this block in a Fall table runner. What do you see?
It's called "Maple Leaf Block" on Quilters Cache and is listed under that name with them. Please copy the link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the block. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/M/MapleLeafBlock.html
october 2020
"Sawtooth star"
or
"square on points"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
October BOM is called Saw Tooth Star. There are many tutorials on YouTube for "Saw Tooth Star"--just search under that name. Use any size you like, any color way you prefer. Make one or many and think about the great things you can make--mug rugs, place mats, crib blankets. Maybe something for Lake Works? Pot Holders?
It's also called "Square and Points" on Quilters Cache and is listed under that name with them. Please copy the link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the block. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/S/SquareandPointsBlock.html
If you are not on line, just use half square triangles around a larger square. Many of us have books of block patterns and I'm sure this one would be included.
It's also called "Square and Points" on Quilters Cache and is listed under that name with them. Please copy the link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the block. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/S/SquareandPointsBlock.html
If you are not on line, just use half square triangles around a larger square. Many of us have books of block patterns and I'm sure this one would be included.
september 2020
"square in square"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
This is a traditional block. Instructions are available from Quilters Cache (see below) and a tutorial is on YouTube, search for "Square in Square" and also look for matching block (there is more than one block with this name). Use any size you like, and color way that appeals to you and access any instruction mode you may have access to, like books and patterns in your own library. We'll see your work when we meet again in person and see what you have made (pot holders, place mats, perhaps a baby quilt for Lan?). Please copy the link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the block. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/S/SquareinSquareBlock.html
https://www.quilterscache.com/S/SquareinSquareBlock.html
august 2020
"rail fence"
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
This is a traditional block known as "Rail Fence" and by Quilters Cache as "Four Part Strip Block". Participants can use any source of instructions for piecing this. I, Carol, used quilters cache.com (search for Four Part Strip Block). Use any fabric you desire and any size that works for you. While we are not meeting I'll post traditional blocks to sew and you can use your fabric stashes and imagination to complete the blocks. Please copy the link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the block. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/R/RailFenceBlock.html
https://www.quilterscache.com/R/RailFenceBlock.html
june/july 2020
"july fourth - fifty-four forty or fight"
note: please use red, white/cream and blue fabric
Patterns by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
Please copy the first link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the
"July Fourth" BOM above. Please copy the second link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the "Fifty-Four Forty or Fight" BOM above. Hard copies will be provided at the Next Guild meeting. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/J/JulyFourthBlock.html
https://www.quilterscache.com/F/FiftyFourFortyorFightBlock.html
"July Fourth" BOM above. Please copy the second link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the "Fifty-Four Forty or Fight" BOM above. Hard copies will be provided at the Next Guild meeting. Please contact the BOM Coordinator if you have questions.
https://www.quilterscache.com/J/JulyFourthBlock.html
https://www.quilterscache.com/F/FiftyFourFortyorFightBlock.html
March 2020
"ground cover"
note: please use fabric with high contrast
February 2020
"four leaf clover"
note: block to be done in green and white
(applique' is optional)
Pattern by Marcia Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
Please copy the link below into your internet browser to get the instructions for the "Four Leaf Clover" BOM above. Hard copies will be provided at the February Guild meeting.
http://www.quilterscache.com/F/FourLeafCloverBlock.html
http://www.quilterscache.com/F/FourLeafCloverBlock.html
june 2019
"buzzsaw"
note: block to be done in red, white & blue
May 2019
"Flight of Swallows"
Note: Block to be done in blue & white
Pattern by Marica Hohn, www.quilterscache.com
Please copy this link into your internet browser to get the instructions for the above BOM
https://quilterscache.com/F/FlightofSwallowsBlock.html
https://quilterscache.com/F/FlightofSwallowsBlock.html
April 2019
"Log Cabin Stars"
March 2019
"Churn Dash"
February 2019
"Starburst"
January 2019
"Spool"
December 2018
"Shooting Star"
November 2018
"Road to California"
October 2018
Flame
August & September 2018
Pinwheel
July 2018
4th of July
June 2018
Hot Air Balloon
Instructions: Click here
Pattern: Click here
May 2018
Butterfly
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April 2018
Go Fly a Kite
March 2018
Out Like a Lamb
Permission to use by Original Designer Nancy Hicks
February 2018
Playful Hearts
Original design from sewmamyblocks.com
December 2017
Starflakes
October/November 2017
Pumpkin Patch
September 2017
Back to School
August 2017
Sunburn
July 2017
Uncle Sam's Bowtie
June 2017
Log Cabin Watermelon
May 2017
Wild Spring Poppies
March 2017
Friendship Block
January 2017
Lost Mittens
Guidelines
Using fabrics from your own stash create a quilt block based on the guild pattern and instructions provided. There is no limit regarding the number of blocks entered however, fabrics should vary to maintain a scrappy feel.
Additional information you should know:
- For each block completed, write your full name on a small piece of paper, and attach to the completed block with a pin.
- Bring your completed blocks to the general meeting. Blocks will be displayed for members to see. For each block completed, enter your name in the drawing.
- If you are unable to attend the meeting, but want to participate in Block of the Month, please arrange to have completed blocks at the general meeting either by contacting the chairman in advance or asking a quilting friend to help.
- At a specified time at the general meeting, based on participation, one or more names will be drawn to win quilt blocks. Example: If we receive 30 blocks, we will have two winners. The first winner will pick 15 blocks; the second winner will receive the remaining. There will be no limit to the number of times you can win.
- In fairness to all, if blocks are incorrect in size, have an obvious error, or are incomplete, will be returned to the maker and will not be eligible for the drawing.
Additional information you should know:
- Please use 100% cotton fabric. Wash and preshrink fabric and test for colorfastness before constructing your block.
- Measure fabric and cut accurate to insure proper block construction. It is very important to accurately construct your block using 1/4 inch seam allowances.
- Press seams. Use an up and down motion as not to distort fabric.
- There should be no need to "square up" if pieces are cut correctly, have been sewn with proper seam allowances, and pressed properly without distortion. (Your very best work is expected.)
- Finished size of the block is the actual size of the block when sewn into a quilt top. Unfinished size is the block with seam allowances. So, if you are making a 6" block finished in a quilt, the unfinished size should measure 6-1/2" because of the 1/4" seam allowance. I hope this makes sense!